Can the 96-97 Coil & Module work on a 94-95 LT1?
dave w
Attachment 17453
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Can the 96-97 Coil & Module work on a 94-95 LT1?
dave w
Attachment 17453
EDIT: Apparently the problem is going from 94-95 to 96-97, but not vice-versa. Whatever changed in the 96-97 ICM apparently doesn't piss off the 94-95 PCM. But a 94-95 ICM will piss off a 96-97 PCM.
No; unless you are also using a 96-97 PCM. I know the '96 Y-body ICM and 94-95 Y-body ICM are different. Info: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...schematic.html
https://www.impalassforum.com/thread...4/post-2231206
https://www.impalassforum.com/thread.../post-10027545
https://www.impalassforum.com/thread...5/post-2658534
https://www.impalassforum.com/thread.../post-10287569
https://www.impalassforum.com/thread.../post-12091466
https://www.impalassforum.com/thread...5/post-4304513
https://www.impalassforum.com/thread.../post-10597553
Admittedly, most of these only use the '96 coil, but not the '96 ignition driver module.
Sure it can be used, just change connectors and you are good to go.
Best regards
I would like to convert a 96 LT1 to the 94-95 PCM. Seems like it's possible with the original 96 ICM and some wiring work.
dave w
Just swap knock sensor modules, plug PCM to car and you are good to go. Did it couple of times.
No need at all to touch the coil or ignition module. Swapping a '96 LT1 to the 94-5 8051 PCM is nearly
a plug and play affair. I've done more than I can count over the years, mostly in the days long before
TunerCat '96 LT1 support.
If you're planning to use the Tach output from the PCM, you will need to address the number of pulses.
The knock sensors changed from 95 to 96, as did the number used depending upon the donor vehicle
(F, B, D or Ybody).
Is this an engine swap, or a stock '96 application where you just want to use a '95 PCM? Knowing the
exact platform will help narrow down the answer.
-Scott
Hi Scott,Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottP
The engine is from a 1996 F-Body Camaro auto trans that will be converted to manual trans. The application is an off-road only Jeep . . . Oregon Sand Dunes playground. https://traveloregon.com/things-to-d...creation-area/
dave w
its definitely an easy swap. i believe you can use the knock module from your 1996 ecm in the older ecm and retain your original (twin) knock sensors. i did it once and it appeared fine. the icm part numbers are different but ive never run into issues interchanging them
That is definitely an easy swap. The knock sensor in the engine block is the only critical difference you
will want to handle. The '96 PCM is expecting a knock sensor with a resistance of 100kohms, while the
'8051 expects 3.9kohms.
There are two ways to address this:
1 - Buy a '95 knock sensor and swap it into the '96 engine.
2 - Install a 3.9kohm resistor inside the PCM on the knock sensor input pin to ground.
I've done both over the years depending upon the circumstances and parts availability - both work fine.
-Scott
You can retain the twin sensors, but only one sensor will be used by the knock filter unless you wire the two sensors together. The 94-95 PCM only uses a single knock sensor input wire (D22) while 96-97 use two (D22 and D21). Additionally, as others mentioned, the sensors themselves will throw Code 43 if you try to use 96-97 knock sensors on a 94-95 PCM. Either swap to the older sensors, insert a resistor inline with the sensors, or just program out Code 43 since it's a stupid useless code anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveo
I greatly appreciate everyone's thoughts and suggestions.
The 96 engine is on a stand, the 94-95 knock sensor(s) will be installed.
Any other thoughts or part suggestions while the engine is on the stand are greatly appreciated. Maybe the Opti-Spark???
dave w
While on the engine stand:Quote:
Originally Posted by dave w
flush out the block after the OBD2 knock sensors / freeze plugs are out, before the OBD1 knock sensors /freeze plugs are installed.
Obviously now's a good time to go over the following:
oil pan & intake manifold gaskets
exhaust manifold bolts
AIRpump exhaust tubes
rear coolant crossover piping (some replace with AN hoses, for example)
if the intake manifold comes off, clean the EGR, PCV, & idle air paths (separately from the main intake runners)
if the H2Opump comes off, check its bolts
if the Opti-Spark comes off, check gaskets and seals (some are DRY, and/or may need special installation tools)
dave, it's nice to see someone going with a gen1/2 sbc vs LS. i don't have a lot of LS experience, but have been told they lack in the low end torque department. anyway, post some pics of progress if time allows! I have an LT1 on the stand myself, but it has been untouched until I have time thia spring.
don't be afraid to take the optispark apart to inspect and clean things, but also to see WHAT the optispark is, you almost never see a GM original these days, make sure it's not some bottom of the barrel chinese garbage. if there's a mitsubishi logo on the optical sensor, put it back together and leave it, it's your best chance of success.Quote:
Originally Posted by dave w
goop the cap&rotor seal of the optispark to ensure the venting system doesn't draw through it. replace the opti vent hoses. a busted opti vent hose could be sucking dirt and air into the opti.