Setting up a bin for modified engine.

Lot's of modified engines and swaps going around and tuning issues I thought we could put together what would you do to bin file before you even started the motor?

Motor:
Built 357 ci..500 lift on int. and .ex 218 and 228 dur. at .050 112 ls 4 deg. built in adv. stock heads? ,flattop pist.roller cam and roller rockers ,ground down tbi body.adj fpr,cop car injectors running 14 lbs fuel press.

Trans:
Maybe we cover all?

ECM:
1227747 $42-1227747-V5.xdf and $42-1227747-V5.adx

Vehicle:
Maybe we cover all?


This started in another thread but thought it would be a better separate topic. I'm sure there will be a lot and in the end will can have them in order.

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Originally Posted by dyeager535

How about finding the closest bin to your application...454, 350, 305, 4.3, whatever, along with the the right trans? Non-PCM automatic, PCM automatic, or manual?

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Originally Posted by EagleMark

What's the estimated HP? Have you calculated the fuel pressure needed to support this with your injectors? Calculated BPW? Have injectors serviced!

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Originally Posted by gregs78cam

That cam is not too much bigger than mine. To get the idle inline, I would lock it in Open Loop and tweak the 6 or 9 VE and spark cells right around where it idles until you get it right. That is what I did, a Wideband is very helpful with that, but a Narrowband should work OK, just shoot for a steady-ish 0.450 V from the O2.

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Originally Posted by EagleMark

Where is the O2 sensor now compared to when it was stock? How far a difference? Convert it to percent and adjust "Integrator Delay Vs. Airflow"

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Originally Posted by EagleMark

Proportional Gains vs O2 Error - "PRP - Gain vs. O2 Error" and the multiplier " PRP - Gain vs. Air Flow" need to be reduced 25% to 50% depending on cam and the bin, some bins are 4 times as much as others.

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Originally Posted by brianko

Add 2-5 degrees of idle timing, cams love timing at idle and will often smooth out a "hunting" idle. Increase idle speeds by 100-150RPM depending upon how aggressive cam is. More airflow as well, again depends upon how aggressive the cam is. Don't even both trying to tune for partial throttle/WOT without getting the idle squared away first.

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Originally Posted by dyeager535

What about turning off EGR? Or other items not on motor?

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Come on, someone has ideas?

1. Where is the O2 sensor now compared to when it was stock? How far a difference? Convert it to percent and adjust "Integrator Delay Vs. Airflow"

2. Proportional Gains vs O2 Error - "PRP - Gain vs. O2 Error" and the multiplier " PRP - Gain vs. Air Flow" need to be reduced 25% to 50% depending on cam.

Add 2-5 degrees of idle timing, cams love timing at idle and will often smooth out a "hunting" idle. Increase idle speeds by 100-150RPM depending upon how aggressive cam is. More airflow as well, again depends upon how aggressive the cam is. Don't even both trying to tune for partial throttle/WOT without getting the idle squared away first.

What about turning off EGR? Doesn't EGR potentially cause issues? As I recall it's requested far more often than just at cruise. I guess AIR doesn't matter on the '7747?

Turning off ALDL spark advance?

That is more for data logging but good point to turn off items no longer on motor. You made it to first post as edited quote.

Some 7747 do have AIR and AIR enabled, but that's it, everything is handled mechanically.
EDIT: Wrong! Looking through the hack there is more but no one ever put them in the mask/XDF.

How about finding the closest bin to your application...454, 350, 305, 4.3, whatever, along with the the right trans? Non-PCM automatic, PCM automatic, or manual?

D'oh!

You just made first spot! :thumbsup:

Increase dead band, this is amount of RPM at idle befor IAC licks in to adjust. Most bins are set to 25 RPM, until you get a rock steady idle, like if it's surging this will drive the IAC nuts trying to compensate. Go for 75 to 100 RPM.

Do not start with a bin that runs Async fueling!

A few things I do before startup.

Set BPW accoring to your new injectors, and if you have voltage compensation set it too. You would be supprised the difference it makes, particuarly at idle and startup. If you can't find the voltage specs for your injectors, I would suggest sending them out to get them done.

Set a base spark table according to the engine you are running. Most chev's I have done like 34 - 36 degrees total. As mentioned above, cammed engines like more idle timing. You will get away with quite high mid range timing values and it will help to keep the engine smooth. Keep an eye out for knock though. A bit of research here pays off in the amount of time required to tune the engine. Keep the table smooth and transitional. Smooth spark table = smooth runnning engine.

You can get a basic VE map going, remember that cammed engines use less down low and more up high. Try not to exceed 80-85% VE. If you need to, alter your BPW to compensate.
Don't fiddle too much with it until the engine warms up unless it is drastically rich or lean.

If you have fitted bigger injectors, look at your cranking fuel and reduce to suit.

Mask your o2 sensor codes until you get it roughed in. (assuming that you will be using a wideband)

Increase your target idle speed. Cammed engines like to idle a little higher. Watch you don't go too high, particularly with autos using a stock converter.

A richer idle will also keep it smooth so ensure that it doesn't go into closed loop fueling around idle. Depending on the cam, it will idle at lower vaccum so concertrate around 45-55kpa for a mild cam and 60-70kpa for a larger cam.

Oh, and check for codes at key on. Fix the issues BEFORE starting the engine!

This is the kind of info I've been looking in the wrong places for over a year for.:happy: