20000* of spark showing in logs

Guys, I recently boosted my truck. I have been chasing knock around for a while now and I though I had it licked last year, but with the latest upgrades to my truck am chasing what i believe to be false knock.
A little back story...
so last year I started to get a check engine light. pulled the codes and it was for the knock sensor. looking at it I found where the steering shaft had chaffed the sensor wire (body lift changed the angle of the steering right next to the KS). I moved the sensor to the drain plug at the bottom of the block, extended the sensor wire, and left the old sensor in the head. I did a data log to make sure that everything was good. Nope. KR at WOT. I have been running about 34* @ 100KPA WOT timing for the last 7 years or so and no indication on the plugs that there is any detonation. I rerouted the sensor wire back to the old KS and same thing KR at WOT. I replaced the KS on both sides of the motor still KR, I bought a can of concentrated race gas and upped the octane to 97 still had the same KR, so I started pulling timing until the KR was gone. I ended up with 19* timing a 15* reduction but there was no KR in the logs and had been fine until I slapped a turbo on it last weekend. I re-scaled my VE and spark tables for 2 bar MAP, I used the info from this thread http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...pulling-timing and his other one for the template for my tune. one heat range colder plug with .032 gap. long story short I have been pulling timing to the point I don't think there will be any left to pull even in the non boost areas. I went for a test drive earlier today and had KR all over the place so I stopped by a buddies shop to fix my exhaust hanger (thinking that was the cause of my false knock). I pulled timing and added fuel to the VE table. I had even more KR. How is that possible? also my logs and histograms are showing over 20,000 degrees of spark under boost. I am at my wits end figuring this out. any one with some ideas? attached are my logs the adx modified for my setup, the bin (don't laugh its rough), and the xdf i used from 96lt4c4 thread. my thoughts on possibilities:

-bad coil 10 year old Street fire
-bad Crane HI6S
-Bad ignition control module (replaced distributor with autozone distributor when I did the MPFI swap at least 5-6 years ago).

From previous threads, these numbers are generally false readings due to improper conversion between signed and unsigned bits in the serial data signal. It’s been noticed on lots of rigs using WBO2. Here is a reference: http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...ll=1#post79291

I see you list your S10 as having $0D, so this is probably the answer. Unfortunately it is just bad data being displayed to you, the human, and has nothing to do with the actual problem you’re experiencing with engine function. Still, starting with good data is a better way to diagnose things. Best of luck.

thats some good reading thanks. why it didn't come up on my search i don't know. it makes sense since i have the timing so low in the boost areas. looks like I have some more research to do.