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are you reading those pressures with a mechanical gauge or just looking at the datalog? commanded pressure and ACTUAL pressure are 2 different things...
There is NO sensor to measure pressure In the transmission, therefore no pressure reading in the datalog. This is how tuners get themselves into trouble and ruin transmissions.
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Mechanical readings. I get what you mean, first run was full line pressure at anything above light throttle. I've scaled the pressure added way back, it's got to be a percentage based number instead of psi that the table is labeled in. Max is 20 added, will probably go lower.
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I ended up with a max of 12 in the load based pressure table. That put most shifts at part throttle around 120-150, cruise in 3rd at min 150, and all wot shifts at 190-210. That's with a 500 boost valve and transgo sk kit. The psi field heading is wrong; putting 10 in the pressure table returns a rise of about 24-30 psi, which equates to 10 percent of max line pressure 240-300 (I can't stare at gauge while driving). The first run I had everything at 90 assuming 90psi, but it was max line pressure, good thing I never went wide open during first drive. In the 0-64 mph pressure table, I added roughly 10-20 percent in columns below 16 mph, to increase pressure in 1st for uphill starts while towing. Overall, shift feel is closer to stock tune, with longer 1-2 2-3, and pressures holding middle 100's instead of low 100's. Hope this helps somebody.
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All the "psi" values are really just the lookup column in the EPC or force motor tables, the current tables for the pressure control solenoid. It's a table of temperature vs pressure giving currents. I don't see it in your list, but it'll be there. Being labelled psi is the biggest mistake in the tuning info you will find. That's why you never go outside the 0-96 range because the table being looked up only has 0-96 columns.