New guy have some questions about all this.

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09-21-2021
CK_32

New guy have some questions about all this.

Ok, so Im in the middle of a 85 C10 LS swap.

Ive got a 5.3 with a 4L60e with ECU from a 2006 2WD Tahoe w/ FlexFuel. Im putting in it. Paid a grumpy old guy off LS1 tech to delete VATs.
I dont think he did it right or did it because my truck wont crank longer than a cycle then die off. Even if its deleted I want to know for sure.

So here I am, trying to learn all this on my own.

Idk what ECU I have. Im pretty sure its a L59 just due to it being from the 2006 tahoe I pulled all this from.

My question is, before I brick my ECU.

What BIN should I use and what XMP?? Ive been googling and youtubing for a few weeks and have no info on how to find out exactly what ECU I have, how to find out or what BIN/XMP to use with out bricking it.

So if someone can explain how to know exactly what BIN/OS/XMP file to use for my ECU.... And get me going I can figure out the rest on TunerPro.

I just cant seem to get the info on how to grab and download the right files to get started.

Thanks in advanced.
09-21-2021
rickky bobby

would need vin# or bin of the tahoe. if you had the bin your using we can check if it is a good vats delete. is the throttle body electric or cable?
09-21-2021
CK_32

Ok so I was able to download the BIN file from my factory ECU.

Its Electric TB. And Im unaware of the VIN off the original Tahoe. I forgot to check while pulling the motor from the junk yard.

Do you want the OS number its running? Or the entire file it self?

The OS 12619623

Quote:

09/20/2021 09:23:28
Read Pcm Type: P59 1mb File Size
Operating System Number: 12619623
Completed in 16 Minutes 1 Seconds
File Saved as:/Ls Droid/Files Read/stock06TahoeECUBIN.bin

Im pretty sure I got the BIN file open on TunerPro but the XMP OS file isn't the same as the BIN OS.

My XMP file I found online for TunerPro is OS 12587603

From What Ive read, XMP and BIN file need to have the same OS to function together? Correct?

Edit: I Checked VATS on these 2 files. And the BIN off my ECU (12619623) and the XMP of (12587603) on Tuner Pro show VATS value set at 40.. When it says to disable VATs should be set at the value of 2. Is that my issue? Or is that pulled from the wrong XMP I downloaded?
09-21-2021
Thorwon

Quote:

Originally Posted by CK_32

Ok so I was able to download the BIN file from my factory ECU.

Its Electric TB. And Im unaware of the VIN off the original Tahoe. I forgot to check while pulling the motor from the junk yard.

Do you want the OS number its running? Or the entire file it self?

The OS 12619623

Im pretty sure I got the BIN file open on TunerPro but the XMP OS file isn't the same as the BIN OS.

My XMP file I found online for TunerPro is OS 12587603

From What Ive read, XMP and BIN file need to have the same OS to function together? Correct?

Edit: I Checked VATS on these 2 files. And the BIN off my ECU (12619623) and the XMP of (12587603) on Tuner Pro show VATS value set at 40.. When it says to disable VATs should be set at the value of 2. Is that my issue? Or is that pulled from the wrong XMP I downloaded?

I don't have any idea what a XMP file is.

But you need to find a XDF that matches your Operating system number. Your operating system is OS 12619623 so any changes you make in your Bin with any other XDF will probably be wrong.

Sorry I can't help you with a XDF but I'm just learning all this stuff.
09-21-2021
trlrider

Morning!
XMP = XDF I am assuming! .xdf would be the correct term for the road map for a given operating system.

There is no known public .xdf for the '9623 operating system for use in Tuner Pro

To make this work with a P59 ecm you will need to find a similar flex fuel 5.3 file that uses the '7603 operating system, then start from there.

'7603 OS is from 2004 and the most widely used and documented. Can be found here: http://gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injecti...rPro-Bin-Files on this forum and also on the Tuner Pro RT Website for the valid .xdf - the .xdf I use comes directly from the Tuner Pro site.

VATS Disable is a value of: 2 on this particular OS
09-21-2021
trlrider

Another Note: If your engine cranks, and then does not, then the problem is not in your VATS.
It will not crank at all if VATS is enabled and not getting the correct corresponding signal from my experience
You have a crank overheat protection kicking in, a bad ground, ground that is not correctly hooked up, or something else going on.
The ECU could see a signal indicating the engine has started and turn off the crank signal.
Go back and check your harness and make sure it has the required grounding to the block, frame and body.

Post a picture of your ECU! It should have two long plugs on the side (edge) of the case. If you have two plugs on the top, then it is a later ecu and your will need HP
Tuners to tune.
09-22-2021
CK_32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thorwon

I don't have any idea what a XMP file is.

But you need to find a XDF that matches your Operating system number. Your operating system is OS 12619623 so any changes you make in your Bin with any other XDF will probably be wrong.

Sorry I can't help you with a XDF but I'm just learning all this stuff.

XDF yea, sorry the YouTuber I was learning this off of kept calling it an XMP file haha

Quote:

Originally Posted by trlrider

Morning!
XMP = XDF I am assuming! .xdf would be the correct term for the road map for a given operating system.

There is no known public .xdf for the '9623 operating system for use in Tuner Pro

To make this work with a P59 ecm you will need to find a similar flex fuel 5.3 file that uses the '7603 operating system, then start from there.

'7603 OS is from 2004 and the most widely used and documented. Can be found here: http://gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injecti...rPro-Bin-Files on this forum and also on the Tuner Pro RT Website for the valid .xdf - the .xdf I use comes directly from the Tuner Pro site.

VATS Disable is a value of: 2 on this particular OS

So if I download say a 2004 5.3 Silverado '7603 OS/BIN to my 2006 Tahoe ECU I wont brick it. Just rewrite it to think its a Silverado ECU? But still allow it to work? Thats where I get confused on whats compatible and whats not. But that would make some sense because one of the youtubers I was watching explain this did say something about him only using 2 of 3 OS's since they have support. Using any other ones is a waste of time. Again I just didnt want to go flashing random OS/BIN/XDF's and brick my ECU before I understood wtf im doing besides flashing a new operating system and file code onto it.

I really just want to make sure I still have a Flex map/option because I plan on running E85 later down the road. Actually the reason Im keeping the dual tanks on my C10 so 1 can be a pump gas tank and the other a Flex tank.

Ok so my guy putting a value of 40 for VATs Im assuming is probably an issue? lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by trlrider

Another Note: If your engine cranks, and then does not, then the problem is not in your VATS.
It will not crank at all if VATS is enabled and not getting the correct corresponding signal from my experience
You have a crank overheat protection kicking in, a bad ground, ground that is not correctly hooked up, or something else going on.
The ECU could see a signal indicating the engine has started and turn off the crank signal.
Go back and check your harness and make sure it has the required grounding to the block, frame and body.

Post a picture of your ECU! It should have two long plugs on the side (edge) of the case. If you have two plugs on the top, then it is a later ecu and your will need HP
Tuners to tune.

So it cranks, fires up then turns off. Then cranks right back up but wont rotate the engine more than 2 times before it cuts off. Almost like a fuel or ignition cut off.
09-22-2021
2xls1

06 ETC is not compatible with a 04 OS. It will go into reduced power mode. There are two sides to VATS. There is the starter enable which is in the OEM lock cylinder and BCM that enables the starter relay then there is the fuel side that is controlled by the PCM. (starts, runs for a second then dies. You can only disable the fuel part of VATS in the PCM. If you post your bin here you read out of your 06 PCM I can tell you more about what you have and even edit it for you.
09-22-2021
CK_32

1 Attachment(s)

This was the BIN bulled from my ECU on LSDroid.

And Much appreciated. If you could kind of explain what you do and how you do it, id appreciate that as well. I'd like to learn this program and how to get these parameters set up so if I ever run into any issues in the future I can try to figure the solution.
09-22-2021
2xls1

2006 Chevy Suburban
VIN # 1GNEC16Z16J147334
VIN Engine ID = Z Flex Fuel
Be aware that 06 Flex Fuel is Virtual Flex meaning there is no physical sensor on the vehicle.
VATS is still enabled in that bin and is set to PWM so if you paid someone to disable it you got screwed.

What I use to edit bins is HP Tuners and Tunercat OBD2, both commercial products.
09-22-2021
CK_32

Welp thats good to know I guess. Last time I trust some old guy off LS1Tech haha

Now what do I gatta do to crack into this on free software and get this dam thing running.
09-22-2021
2xls1

1 Attachment(s)

Here is your bin with VATS disabled. You should be able to flash it with LS Droid since you used it to read it. That's all I did for now. There are a lot of things that need to be changed in the tune for a swap. I will have more time on Thursday to edit the bin more. If you eventually want to do it yourself and keep the 06 OS then you are going to have to buy either HP Tuners or EFI Live. Tunercat OBD2 is no longer available to purchase. Until someone writes a XDF for your OS then you can't use Tunerpro. Changing to the only blue/green OS available in Tunerpro is going to cause issues with some of your 06 hardware. I will edit your 06 bin for your swap for free. I don't mind helping out. I do it locally as a part time gig and usually charge but I do pro bono work too. What I need to know is your tire size on the 85 (actual size xxx/xx/xx) and rear end gear ratio. Keeping flex fuel working will be a problem because virtual flex requires the original fuel sender in the 06 Suburban. And I know you said it was a Tahoe but the VIN is a Suburban. If you added the 03-05 Flex Fuel Sensor to the fuel line and ran the wires to the PCM then I could switch the setting to Sensor Equipped and keep FF.
09-22-2021
Cat_fish_hunter

CK, I was able to look at your bin file. The pcm is for a vehicle with a vin number 1GNEC16Z16J147334> It was for C-1 model meaning 2-wheel drive. Engine is a L59 5.3L MFI. Made in Janesville, WI. I have been working on vehicles for over 45 years. My first thought is your putting this engine into a 1985 C-10. I have owned one. It doesn't have a BCM, EBCM, or any other modules that are on a 2006 Suburban, Yukon XL, Envoy XL, Denali XL, Trailblazer EXT, Ascender or Escalade ESV. I tried to put a 0411 from 2002 Suburban onto my 1999 Suburban. In 2000, GM ran 2 wires from the PCM for Data. One is purple and the other is Yellow. The Yellow one goes to the BCM and this energizes the injectors. If you are going to put an engine from 2006 into a 1985 body, you really need the complete wiring sytem including the wiring system inside the dash. 2006 even has a instrument cluster module. Thie engine has ETC and that is controlled by the Accelerator Pedal with Position Sensor that tells the pcm to tell the throttle body how far to open. You also need to think about the fuel lines and whether it is a returnless system or not. If it is a return system, you probably need the gas tank from the vehicle the pcm came from. Then you have the TCM for the transmission. Putting a 2006 5.3L with a 4l60-E transmission into a 1985 C-10 isn't going to work unless you have all the wires and modules that were used to make the engine and transmission work in the donor vehicle. 85 natural aspirated vs Multi port fuel injection. I own 2-1999 Suburbans with 5.7 and now own a 2000 Silverado with a LM7 5.3l which is almost the same engine as yours. I took an 0411 from a 2002 S-10 with 4.3L V6 in my 2000 Truck. Changed Vin before even hooking up to match mine. It only worked when I read the pcm that was in truck and then flashed that to the 0411. Worked perfect and have been able to use I was able to use Tuner Pro RT and an xdf for 7603 OS to view your vin number correct but since it doesn't match the os, other tables, scalars will not be displayed properly. I used Universal Patcher to create an XDF for your 12619623 OS. I used EFI Live V7.5 for info on vehicle models that used this engine and history. You can't change anything but it allows me to view info that other programs don't show. I have tried Droid with MX+ adapter with limited success. I have better luck with PCMHAMMER to read and write to my pcm. I have an ODBlink SX cable from needing it to time my 99 burbs. Cam Offset Retard is +2-. If it is 2.1 pcm throws code. It is probably the slowest at reading and writing to the pcm but it allows me to make changes to my calibrations without having to remove the pcm and use a bench. I have been following Tuner Pro since 2007 when I got my first burb. I learned about pcmhammer about 2 years ago. Everyone including Grumpy have contributed many, many hours writing code in C+ to come up with a few programs that will allow people that KNOW what they are doing to alter certain scalars, flags and tables that control the modern PCM. I know I have spent probably 200 plus hours just learning tuning and the protocols needed to read these pcms. My 99 burb sat for over a month when I tried to repin a black box with 4 plugs into an 0411 with 2-80 pin connectors. I didn't know what I was doing and I read up on as many articles I could on the 0411 swap. The 2002 I took the 0411 from had that yellow wire to the BCM when I looked at the wiring schematics on the 2002. I ended up taking the wiring harness off my other 99 burb and put on the one that one friend ask me "Were you bored and needed something to work on and decided to take a vehicle that ran and make it Not run?" Put other harness on and it cranked right up and ran great. The 1985 body style ran from 1973 to 1987 without changing much. The L59 was used from 2002-2007. It is a LM7 flex fuel version. Vehicles with 8th letter Z in vin and tahoe were only used 02-06. The flex fuel engines have larger injectors than non-flex do. I can't put that 2006 in my 2000 without changing the accelerator pedal. When GM and others went to distributor less engines that meant the fuel and firing are controlled by a computer. I don't think you got ripped off by Grumpy, if you put that pcm into the vehicle it came out of, it would probably crank and run and the Vats would be deleted. Vats just controls the 12 volts going to the solenoid on the starter. When you turn your key to crank, a chip in the key sends a signal to the BCM that enables the BCM to send the 12 volts needed to energize the starter. The BCM controls the main signals needed to crank and run from starting to fuel and firing. I have used 3 Great programs to flash my 0411 in my 2000 Silverado from running fine to cranks, tries to run then cuts off to barely running and misfiring. IMO I would get a Haynes Manual on the Donor vehicle that the engine is coming from. Read it from front to back, then study the wiring diagrams in the back. Study them to find out all the modules and sensors that are used to make the donor vehicle engine and transmission run. Make a list of all of them and location. Since the 1985 doesn't have but 2 wires needed and that is your your 2 from the battery. Find an engine from 1999 to 2001 or 02. You don't need quite as much stuff to make it run, but not much. I know that you can run a cable from back of transmission to 85 speedometer and it works, but the 06 is electric and need cluster from donor vehicle. Alot of stuff. I think the 2 big plugs going thru the firewall are the same size from 2000-06. I am not sure about the 85. You can put a carburetor on the L59 but firing is controlled by computer. 99 was last year the last distributor engine 5.7L L31 used in suburban, yukon and sierra 1500. EPA emissions requirements and fuel economy have force GM, Ford and all manufacturers have turned to computers to improve total vehicle performance and operation. The 85 had a fuel pump and coil to control engines and that fuel pump was probably 35 lbs or less. My 99 won't crank with 49 lbs. Need 55 plus PSI. I learned that there are limits on what is easy and what is very difficult when is comes to changing the pcm in a GM from 96 up which is when ODBII was first implemented. The same system that each manufacture uses to check each sensor and module during the assembly process of vehicle to make sure they were installed and working properly when assembly is completed. I have worked on Chevy's from points thru HEI and the tough to set requiring special software to time it. I am still learning computer controlled engine and transmission and how each is dependent on modules and sensors to operated properly. The 85 had an EGR that was used to circulate spent gasses back thru the engine to lower the combustion chamber temperature and improve gas millage. The L59 doesn't use an EGR. Yes there is some great software that when used together enable a person to change how a computer functions. Kinda like going from win 95 to windows 7. Requires alot more stuff to make computer work right. And it took alot of dedication by people from EagleMark and tuner pro up to PCMHammer and I think Grampy and others are responsible for the only Free software that makes all this possible. All others cost. Strip all the wire harness from the dash thru fuse boxes firewall and engine compartment including transmission and fuel tank off the donor. Grab fuel lines and gas tank if you can even if you have to start over with different PCM. Put all that stuff in that 85 and she will fly down the road with that 295 hp, rollered 5.3LS 6 bolt main. You don't need 2006 but high milleage becomes an issue when looking for earlier LS engines. It sounds easy and was in 85 to change engines and transmissions. It has changed and gotten a lot more complicated in last 36 years. I don't think just updating the VIN AND vats delete is going to get that 06 running. You want that 85 to run on 06 system. The easy route is to get all wires from the ignition switch down to the alternator and fuel pump from same vehicle that the PCM was used on. That 06 needs a lot more stuff than the 5.7 needed in 85. That stuff is stuff the manufactures don't tell you upfront how it all works and is specific to that year engine. Electronic Throttle Body needs the accelerator pedal sensor to operate if it is DBW. My 2000 isn't DBW. It sounds so easy but it ain't. Good Luck PS Grounding straps must be installed for the computer and sensors to operate properly since the signal needs all components grounded to each other for each to even work. You were able to read your pcm which means it can be tuned. I guess you read it with bench harness since you only need 5 or 6 wires to read the PCM and Droid will only allow bench read and writes. Doing that to a 2006 with 06 stuff is one thing, putting that into a platform that is 35 years before requires more stuff. I couldn't get a 2001 088 to make my 2000 run right. But right now you just want it to run. Worry about tuning later.
09-22-2021
2xls1

Wow.
09-23-2021
CK_32

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2xls1

Here is your bin with VATS disabled. You should be able to flash it with LS Droid since you used it to read it. That's all I did for now. There are a lot of things that need to be changed in the tune for a swap. I will have more time on .. Keeping flex fuel working will be a problem because virtual flex requires the original fuel sender in the 06 Suburban. And I know you said it was a Tahoe but the VIN is a Suburban. If you added the 03-05 Flex Fuel Sensor to the fuel line and ran the wires to the PCM then I could switch the setting to Sensor Equipped and keep FF.

Man you’re a life saver! I’m going to try snd flash it this weekend and see if I can get it to fire up.

What else needs to be adjusted? Is it going to be an issue if I try to upgrade to a 4L80 in the future?
09-23-2021
CK_32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cat_fish_hunter

CK, I was able to look at your bin file. The pcm is for a vehicle with a vin number 1GNEC16Z16J147334> It was for C-1 model meaning will only allow bench read and writes. Doing that to a 2006 with 06 stuff is one thing, putting that into a platform that is 35 years before requires more stuff. I couldn't get a 2001 088 to make my 2000 run right. But right now you just want it to run. Worry about tuning later.

Holy crap man that’s a TON of info. As far as the BCM that actually kinda works out into my favor. I need that to run the 2015 dash I want to swap into the c10 so I can get readings on the same language as my trans and motor. Since the 85 is still mechanical speedo and other monitors. I also measured and it should actually fit. I want to give it a shot but I need the BCM to power and talk to the dash panel.

As far as the wiring I have the full harness which includes the pedal and PCM, as well as the 4L60 connections and all of those wires. I basically took everything from the donor to avoid head aches like these.I tried PCM hammer but it freezes every time I open any menus or leave it open for longer than 10 seconds. I’ve let it sit for 5 minutes but it still locks up. I’ve even uninstalled v18 for v17 and still the same exact issue. The only time it works is the first time. After that anytime I launch after 5 seconds the program runs but locks up on me. Doesn’t stop responding but locks up and doesn’t do anything. I can’t even close the program or windows.

My buddy helping me with this project does wiring for 4x4 builds he does so hopefully he can figure it all out. He’s going to wire my fuze box. So hopefully he can figure out all of the other things as well. Cause I’m mechanically inclined to say the least. But when it comes to wiring or coding is where I fall flat on my face. Which is why I want to learn it snd be able to do everything.
09-23-2021
trlrider

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cat_fish_hunter

CK, I was able to look at your bin file. The pcm is for a vehicle with a vin number 1GNEC16Z16J147334> It was for C-1 model meaning 2-wheel drive. Engine is a L59 5.3L MFI. Made in Janesville, WI. I have been working on vehicles for over 45 years. My first thought is your putting this engine into a 1985 C-10. I have owned one. It doesn't have a BCM, EBCM, or any other modules that are on a 2006 Suburban, Yukon XL, Envoy XL, Denali XL, Trailblazer EXT, Ascender or Escalade ESV. I tried to put a 0411 from 2002 Suburban onto my 1999 Suburban. In 2000, GM ran 2 wires from the PCM for Data. One is purple and the other is Yellow. The Yellow one goes to the BCM and this energizes the injectors. If you are going to put an engine from 2006 into a 1985 body, .................................................. .. and sensors that are used to make the d

- Lot's of great points, but overly complicated.
- There are a few ways to skin this cat, and some are not complicated at all.
- Just helped finish a 2006 5.3 swap into a 1986 Square Body, we used a '7603 OS in a P59. We also used the '04 intake, throttle body and peddle.
- Hand built stand alone harness. This one is not currently flex fuel, but he has the needed sensors and pigtails in the harness to make it such. There are only a couple of locations in our area to get E85
- Yes, ground straps in multiple locations to insure no issues there.

- we did not use factory gauges, vitals are to the driver thru a analog gauge set, all other vitals for the pcm are as the factory intended.
- runs great and the owner has had zero issues tuning it so far. Camshaft upgrade is in the works.

Cat_Fish_Hunter - maybe line breaks, paragraphs next time. Kinda like I did here! You post was very informative but very hard to read. Thank You!
09-23-2021
trlrider

Quote:

Originally Posted by CK_32

Holy crap man that’s a TON of info. As far as the BCM that actually kinda works out into my favor. I need that to run the 2015 dash I want to swap into the c10 so I can get readings on the same language as my trans and motor. Since the 85 is still mechanical speedo and other monitors. I also measured and it should actually fit. I want to give it a shot but I need the BCM to power and talk to the dash panel..

You are going to have a really tough go making a '15 cluster work with a '06 pcm. they use two different pcms and software architecture. BCM's are not even compatible and will not even talk to each other.
09-23-2021
trlrider

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2xls1

06 ETC is not compatible with a 04 OS. It will go into reduced power mode. There are two sides to VATS. There is the starter enable which is in the OEM lock cylinder and BCM that enables the starter relay then there is the fuel side that is controlled by the PCM. (starts, runs for a second then dies. You can only disable the fuel part of VATS in the PCM. If you post your bin here you read out of your 06 PCM I can tell you more about what you have and even edit it for you.

One can use the conversion kit from Scoggins Dickey and eliminated that issue. My '04 LM7 Avalanche use the 2006 TBSS intake and Throttle Body with the factory ETC and the '7603 OS!
09-23-2021
2xls1

Quote:

Originally Posted by trlrider

One can use the conversion kit from Scoggins Dickey and eliminated that issue. My '04 LM7 Avalanche use the 2006 TBSS intake and Throttle Body with the factory ETC and the '7603 OS!

Not the same comparison at all. If you try and use the 06 LM7 or L59 ETC system with a 04 OS it will trigger REP.
09-23-2021
2xls1

Quote:

Originally Posted by CK_32

Is it going to be an issue if I try to upgrade to a 4L80 in the future?

In order to segment swap 4L80 segments into a 4L60 calibration the main OS numbers have to be the same. There is no 06 4L80 OS that matches a 06 53 FF OS. There is a gimicky way to run a 4L80 on a 4L60 calibration with some relays but I've never had much luck getting that way to work reliably. It's always better to segment swap IMO. All your variables are going to be if you want to do tuning yourself and if you are willing to buy commercial editing and logging products or try and do it with the free stuff. If you are going to stick with using 06 OS or if you switch to 04 and change what you will have to to make your ETC system compatible with a 04 OS and use the free stuff. And if you switch to the 04 that OS that has a XDF available is not FF. You really need to nail down what you want the build to be and stick with it and that will determine your options.
09-27-2021
CK_32

Ok so I’m having another issue. I’m trying to flash that BIN file with VATs deleted and LS Droid tells me I have 0/3 previous flashes.

I found somewhere some guy had a similar issue and someone recommended they read and reflash the same OS onto their ECU.

Problem is when I try to do this LS droid gives me a low voltage warning saying it dropped to 12.2v….

But I’ve tried this on my Laptop power supply and a fresh truck battery and got he same issue. Even still 12.2 is above the 12v needed. Anyone know why I’m getting this error message?

Idk why this is turning out to be so difficult to accomplish. And for so many people doing LS swaps and using LS droid idk why there is so limited information aside from mechanical information.

I’m half tempted to purchase HP Tuners but just to delete and upload VATs this really seems to be overkill for the cost to value for me.
09-27-2021
2xls1

Try PCM Hammer.
09-27-2021
trlrider

Quote:

Originally Posted by CK_32

Ok so I’m having another issue. I’m trying to flash that BIN file with VATs deleted and LS Droid tells me I have 0/3 previous flashes.

I found somewhere some guy had a similar issue and someone recommended they read and reflash the same OS onto their ECU.

Problem is when I try to do this LS droid gives me a low voltage warning saying it dropped to 12.2v….

But I’ve tried this on my Laptop power supply and a fresh truck battery and got he same issue. Even still 12.2 is above the 12v needed. Anyone know why I’m getting this error message?

Idk why this is turning out to be so difficult to accomplish. And for so many people doing LS swaps and using LS droid idk why there is so limited information aside from mechanical information.

I’m half tempted to purchase HP Tuners but just to delete and upload VATs this really seems to be overkill for the cost to value for me.

There a million and one post on this forum and dozens of others that tell you flashing on the vehicle is NOT Recommended, even in stand alone systems.
A bench harness with a reliable power supply that puts out at least 1 full watt of power and 12.6 or more volts.
Flashing a PCM in the vehicle with a run of the mill car charger is also not recommended, as the power signal is not clean, and you can possibly brick your pcm.

Yes, it is a safety feature in LS Droid that you must have 3 flashes before being able to write a PCM.
Protocols and Safety functions are put in place for a reason, just like traffic lights at busy intersections. To try and prevent a oops, a accident.
LS Droid for Windows works great if you just follow the instructions in it to the letter, and not some you tuber that just barely knows what they are doing. There are some great tutorials online, and on you-tube, but there are also dozens more of crappy, poorly executed advice video's.
Voltage is not the only thing that matters, wattage is also very important. People trying to use a 12 volts 1/2 wall wart will not get the job done. And even many laptop power supplies drop off badly.
Pete and Jason have put thousands of hours into this and their stuff works. Especially for Free.
Now, the OBDLINK LX/MX/MX+ will NOT work with LS Droid for Windows
LS Droid Legacy (for Android Devices) does still work, but I can tell you the makers of OBDLink devices change their firmware so often, that is may work with this update, and not the next. I have 2 OBDXPRO devices and a OBDLink MX+ device. All 3 work correctly in their given environments.
Everytime I try to flash/write a PCM in a vehicle it goes bad. Everytime I do it with my $8.00 homemade bench harness it works perfect.

If you have not already, get on Facebook, join the REAL LS Droid page, and first read through all the stickies at the top of the page, then read a couple of weeks back post. You can post your question there and Pete, Jason, or one of the long time users will help you fix your issue.
09-27-2021
rickky bobby

The reason the bin shows pwm is the about 1999 to 2002 pcms have pwm for cameros and firedbirds. in 2003 pwm was not in these new pcms. so when your vats was edited it should be 01 not 02. 00 is vats enabled. 01 disabled then ff changed to fe so checksum is good. this is why you had trouble with the vats. i knew the checksum was wrong. this is why we needed to see the bin file to check. i have 2 2006 silverados i know what your dealing with. i would personally try to fit the 06 cluster into the dash or go with an app off the obd2 port to read things, my opinion.
09-27-2021
rickky bobby

when i mean edited, i mean using a hex editor like neo. if you know where to look you can alter numbers and letters to change the coding. by the way if you use the new efi live download you will see checksum fail while reading bin files. older hp tuners 2.24 did read bin files, but the vats with pwm is not in the 2003 to 2007 so hp tuner reads pwm when it is not. newer hp tuners does not read bin files. efi live will show a ? when vats is altered but the checksum is bad.
09-27-2021
2xls1

HP Tuners does not read the VATS wrong on P59s. Someone had changed his setting from the stock Serial setting to PWM. I changed to None correctly and there is no checksum error in the corrected bin I posted.
09-28-2021
CK_32

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2xls1

Try PCM Hammer.

Sorry it took me forever to respond. The forum kept saying I needed to log in everytime I went to reply when I was already logged in.

But PCM hammer won’t launch on my PC. I even uninstalled and tried version 17 with the same issue. It crashes but stays open in a live state. But nothing works on 17 or 18.

I did get it to work on my laptop but it doesn’t have Bluetooth like my PC does. So even tho it works I have no way to send it to my OBD2 device.
09-28-2021
CK_32

Quote:

Originally Posted by trlrider

There a million and one post on this forum and dozens of others that tell you flashing on the vehicle is NOT Recommended, even in stand alone systems.
A bench harness with a reliable power supply that puts out at least 1 full watt of power and 12.6 or more volts.
Flashing a PCM in the vehicle with a run of the mill car charger is also not recommended, as the power signal is not clean, and you can possibly brick your

If you have not already, get on Facebook, join the REAL LS Droid page, and first read through all the stickies at the top of the page, then read a couple of weeks back post. You can post your question there and Pete, Jason, or one of the long time users will help you fix your issue.

I’m aware it’s a safety feature. Just frustrating everything I try ends with a dead end for me. And I’m only using my bench harness. I wouldn’t ever flash in vehicle unless I had to for the same reason you state.

I’ll look at the Facebook group if I can remember my password. I’m sure there is more info out there but Google isn’t what it use to be. And sometimes is impossible at finding some info if it’s not on a major search traffic site or look for trending results. :nono:
09-28-2021
rickky bobby

1 Attachment(s)

try right clicking and run as administrator on pcm hammer. also pcm hammer 19 is out. here is your bin corrected with checksum fixed.
10-01-2021
CK_32

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickky bobby

try right clicking and run as administrator on pcm hammer. also pcm hammer 19 is out. here is your bin corrected with checksum fixed.

So is this different than the vat delete that 2xls posted?

Cause I uploaded his bin onto my ECU and have the same issue. So it’s still something else. I have a feeling it’s still killing fuel. I’ll try and upload a video of it from last night with the VATS bin from 2x
10-01-2021
CK_32

https://youtu.be/-xareQSHh3w

Clip of the crank no start. If I just hold the starter even after it fires to keep it going it just dry cranks after the initial furring.
10-02-2021
2xls1

2 Attachment(s)

Here are some screen shots using both HP Tuners and Tunercat OBD2 of the three different bins in this thread. I'll let you decide what is correct. First your original bin you posted.
10-02-2021
2xls1

2 Attachment(s)

Here is my No VATS bin.
10-02-2021
2xls1

2 Attachment(s)

The other guys Now No VATS bin.
10-02-2021
rickky bobby

2 Attachment(s)

Did you flash mine? I used universal patcher 17.156 with kur4o's vtd patch. checked with efi live 8.3.7 notice the checksums are different.$2009 vs $200A edit: notice there is NO PWM to choose. it is only class 2 OR none.
10-02-2021
2xls1

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickky bobby

Did you flash mine? I used universal patcher 17.156 with kur4o's vtd patch. checked with efi live 8.3.7 notice the checksums are different.$2009 vs $200A edit: notice there is NO PWM to choose. it is only class 2 OR none.

I opened your bin with both HP Tuners and Tunercat OBD2. Both will open raw bins, HPT with an older version. Back in HPT V1.x it only opened and saved bins. The results are in the pics. There are 3 options with both commercial products. Serial, PWM, and None. There was no checksum error with his original file, or mine, or yours. If there was HP Tuners and Tunercat OBD2 would have detected it. No need to correct anything. Loading your file and his original file as a compare file in both HP Tuners and Tunercat OBD2, both compare results show 0 differences.
10-02-2021
2xls1

Quote:

Originally Posted by CK_32

https://youtu.be/-xareQSHh3w

Clip of the crank no start. If I just hold the starter even after it fires to keep it going it just dry cranks after the initial furring.

Put a MAF sensor on it and I bet it starts. The PCM is not set up for speed density operation without a MAF. Really looking at what you have there you are in no way ready to try and start it.
10-18-2021
rickky bobby

any updates on project?
08-19-2023
MO LS Noobie

Sorry to hijack your thread, I hope you are still around, catfish Hunter. The only issue I am having is for fuel gauge calibration. I have a 99 Yukon Denali that I have swapped in a stroked 05 LQ9 out of a Escalade. Been running fine for a couple years, but I cannot seem to make the 99 fuel gauge register properly. The only gauge in my stock instrument cluster that runs off the network is the fuel gauge. I have changed the instrument cluster type, the PWM enable flag, and all of the different scalars for fuel system, never seem to get it right. Any ideas, all help is appreciated