LT1 from Square one

Back story:
I come from a background of drag racing and off-road. Been able to play with plenty of toys under the guise of each, including several TBI conversions and also aftermarket EFI

One of the victims we had during that period was a 1994 LT1 Camaro. The block/heads/manifolds remained stock. 52mm throttle body, MAF sensor, CAI, smog delete. Everything Hotchkiss under the rear and subframe connectors, 2800 stall from PTC and a 4.56 gear. Used the old hypertech handheld. Car picked up 2 seconds at the drag strip

Since the first wife got that one, I acquired another in 2008 with only 28k on it. To this car not much has changed, K&N panel filter in the factory box, cat delete, and a MAF sensor that made it pig rich and surge at idle (so it’s never been used)

Finally have a few kids moving out and more time to mess with it. Now only has 47k on it. I’ll be looking to sort out that MAF and retune it. Long term I’ll get a CAI and throttle body, but it won’t get the treatment the other did, just a cruiser

Thanks for reading
Bent

get stock MAF, upload stock tune via EEhack/Flashhack form Sevo and You are good to go.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WASyL

get stock MAF, upload stock tune via EEhack/Flashhack form Sevo and You are good to go.

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I do have the factory MAF still. Actually I have 2. I was going to put the stock sensor in with the bigger ends off the expensive one.

Been looking at those files also, thank you

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Originally Posted by Bent72

I was going to put the stock MAF sensor in with the bigger ends off the expensive one.

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Since the OEM F-car MAF sensor [and its OEM housing] can handle at least 400 horse, the 'bigger ends off the expensive one' will need tuning just to perform like OEM, and will probably not release any performance improvement.

Unless this engine is equipped with at least all the basic bolt-on mods, plus headers, 1.6 roller rockers, and a ported intake manifold, OEM F-car / Y-car MAF sensor & housing works best.

i'll play the devil's advocate. just run speed density like you're doing. with a proper tune developed with the tools that are available for that engine these days it'll be every bit as good as running a maf. do you really want to trust a hot wire maf sensor that's 25+ years old anyway? those things can be pretty sketchy when they get that old.

Good input everyone! I’m definitely still in the research and read phase, including learning all I can about Tunerpro and the bevy of bin files located on this site for just that purpose. I’ll keep everyone updated as things progress

Right now sorting out some of those pesky ABS and Air Bag lights
Last week put on some new tires and did brakes

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Originally Posted by steveo

i'll play the devil's advocate. just run speed density like you're doing. with a proper tune developed with the tools that are available for that engine these days it'll be every bit as good as running a maf. do you really want to trust a hot wire maf sensor that's 25+ years old anyway? those things can be pretty sketchy when they get that old.

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I've been reading through a bunch of the instructional write-ups on the Moates site

How difficult is it to tune the speed-density portion of this for someone that lives at altitude?
One of my concerns on that is the 4000-11k feet portion of the program where I live

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveo

i'll play the devil's advocate. just run speed density like you're doing. with a proper tune developed with the tools that are available for that engine these days it'll be every bit as good as running a maf. do you really want to trust a hot wire maf sensor that's 25+ years old anyway? those things can be pretty sketchy when they get that old.

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true but it takes some time to set SD propperly (only with WB and tons of logging) for mileage and compensate for lack of accel enrichment in thse PCM's. as You said in one of my threads SD mode is only backup for MAF mode.

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Originally Posted by Bent72

I've been reading through a bunch of the instructional write-ups on the Moates site

How difficult is it to tune the speed-density portion of this for someone that lives at altitude?
One of my concerns on that is the 4000-11k feet portion of the program where I live

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not that difficult, get WBO2, propper cable (i use Moates one), EEhack+Flashhack and should manage to finetune it wwithin 2 days/300 miles drive.

Thanks for the info!
I have a friend that’s used tunerpro and has a cable already
Tried to download RT yesterday and it locked up. Did manage to get the non RT loaded.
Going to keep reading and get more familiar with the software

So no cable yet, but I did load Mark’s 94TA bin (RIP fine sir) and loaded Steve’s XDF into TP just so I could get acquainted with all that. It’ll give me plenty to see and process until I can data log my own project and see where I’m starting

Todays activity included reading through the Flashhack thread and had a few questions:

1) using tunerpro, can I load the information off the existing 8051 and use that as my base .bin file?
2) Presuming the XDF from SteveO is what I want and is compatible with the above bin?
3) I will be using the flashhack to work with the ALDL. I promise I'll donate when I download, as I appreciate all your work



Also doing some more research on that the BCM probably needs removed and repaired or replaced due to radio and door lock malfesance.
I should be able to start work on that as I wait for the cable

After budget stuff allows, I'll do the following
1) In lieu of dumping much money on the ABS circuit, I'll likely delete it and add the prop valve. Has at least a bad WSS on the RF, and intermittently on the LF per a Tech1A
2) CAI, 58mm throttle body
Already has cat delete, 3" flowmaster muffler, and an aftermarket air elbow

Ok probably need some guidance

TP RT installed
Red Devil usb cable installed and comm with TP
EE_16210011.bin
EEX.xdf
$EE-16188051-v3.8.adx

Will communicate to the car.
Tons of “errors”
Gages are squished at the bottom and can’t get them to open in a “full screen” (got this sorted)

Sorted and data logging!

The errors seem to go away when I click and unclick the connect button a few times

First uploaded DL, one of 4 that I got just now. Please give feedback if you have any

LT1 Camaro
3.23 auto
Factory MAF, TB Air intake
No Cat,3' Flowmaster muffler in place of stock
No changes to factory settings

Edit add#3, has a WOT at about the 3:15 mark

Been messing with this a bit, I was wondering what I need to look at in terms of the transmission (4L60e) in terms of changing the throttle body to 52mm. Read on the magic interwebs that the change in airflow changes how the transmission reacts

I searched on here and was not successful in my endeavors. Anyone have enlightenment for me?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bent72

Been messing with this a bit, I was wondering what I need to look at in terms of the transmission (4L60E) in terms of changing the throttle body to 52mm.
Read on the magic interwebs that the change in airflow changes how the transmission reacts.

I searched on here and was not successful in my endeavors. Anyone have enlightenment for me?

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The commanded line pressures are commensurate to expected airflow, not measured.
Base line pressures actually go by TPS%; it expects a 48mm throttle body.
So with a 52mm throttle body, for a given TPS%, commanded line pressure needs to be higher than it would be with a 48mm throttle body.

With B- & D-cars, 9C1 &/or V4P line pressures - whichever is greater for a given spot - are enough for all the lesser B- & D-cars.
sherlock9c1 has a more clever way of increasing the line pressures that may yield an 1 or 2 more metro/urban MpGs.

Somebody will come and improve on what I just said, but that's the gist.

Cool, I'll look through and see if I can find some more on that