Bin/XDF 95 Z28

I was able to connect Flashhack with my home made ALDL Cable . Read O/S and save Bin as, also connected to EEHack and I was able to verify Cal ID # 16209461. The logger is collecting data and everything works. The thing I am having trouble with is converting the Bin File into a format readable with TunerProRT. I also do not have an XDF File yet or a matching Bin file to modify. It would help to get a link on a good Bin and a Good XDF file. I will list the alleged setup so anyone reading can understand where I am at here in this stage of the project.

Was told verbally these details about the setup or verified by myself taking the car apart and putting it back together.

*95 Z28 Green LT1 T56 17x10 wheels
*Rebuilt LT1 fresh heads, lt4 hot cam, crank looks new, 1.60 roller rockers blue with scorpions embossed, stock injectors, stock fuel delivery and new clutch.
* Car never ran until I first started it up last week.
*Will not idle
* O/S Cal ID 16209461

I have been putting this project off for a while and the other car I have needs a starter before I move it out. I would like to get it idling and able to drive around first thing tomorrow. I would just go for it but I'm sure there is a lot of corrupted information out there and I would like to be able to simply copy my system calibration and pair it with the correct xdf file. I literally have less than 10 hours in this project since I have gotten started any advice would be much appreciated.

Ok so here is what figured out, downloaded Bin file but it was an automatic. Still could not use my stock calibration as a Bin for Tunerpro. Modified bin, tried to flash and was not able to connect. What I did was use 2 wires with an ftdi chip rx/tx and ground. RX and TX are simply soldered together at the pins on the chip and ground is soldered to the ground. Rx and TX are ran to Slot#9 on obd port and ground was #4. When I tried to write the flash it would not connect. I switched the ground from slot #4 to Slot #5 and it flashed. The problem I had was that when I attempted to flash with ground in slot #4 the Pcm went dead like a brick. Also tried to use a Bin file that was labeled Y body and it started but would die out after a moment. Went back to the 95 auto bin and it runs. The car will idle but if you do not feather the throttle for a minute or so it will die within 10 seconds. Still runs rich. I will also need a wideband to make this car easier to tune. Not sure why but Believe that slot 4 ground means read and slot 5 ground is write. None of this makes any sense to me and it still runs pretty rich, i also added fuel on top so its manageable once i figure out the idle and take it for a drive.

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It would help to get a link on a good Bin and a Good XDF file.

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here's pretty much every factory bin (you really need : http://fbodytech.com/tutorials/bin-files/

here's a good xdf: http://fbodytech.com/eex-tunerpro-definition/

don't run y-body bins on your f-body

your car dying right after startup has nothing to do with the tune. the stock tune will run such a mild build and idle without dying. lets see a log of when it's dying.

do not tune around a problem, it's a 26 year old car so anything could be wrong

IM getting it ironed out. Thanks for the help.

The IAT was non functional. The engine is built but left set in the yard for years never started. LT4 HotCam 1.60 Roller rocker. Said its bored No mention of stoking but crankshaft appears to be new. I reserve myself the right to tune this vehicle because it is not stock. Just picking up from where they lost it. Engine is allegedly Professionally built but have not gotten ahold of the person who did it. Lol what is a y body exactly that one didn't work but was the only one listed as a manual.

B-body: Caprice RoadMaster Sedans & Wagons (4L60E auto)
D-body: Fleetwood & 'Commercial Chassis' (4L60E auto)
F-body: Camaro & FireBird (4L60E or T56-manual)
Y-body: Corvette (4L60E or T56-manual)

Next problem I have on hand, the car does have a 7.5 Posi 4.10 gears . the gearset is trashed, it literally looks like they left the pinion so it would ride the outside of the ring gear .100 backlash or so. I will hopefully have the new gearset in a week. Have new u joints and trans seems like it will shift ok. the car still will not idle and I have not pin pointed all of the trouble codes. Iat goes crazy if you drive it. Sticks around 2000 rpms and bobs up and down. Just a question though, i have logs on EEHack but can not find any codes, do i have to do a check with it plugged in and key on or does it have to be running. Service engine soon and a bunch of other lights are on all the time.

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Originally Posted by steveo

here's pretty much every factory bin (you really need : http://fbodytech.com/tutorials/bin-files/

here's a good xdf: http://fbodytech.com/eex-tunerpro-definition/

don't run y-body bins on your f-body

your car dying right after startup has nothing to do with the tune. the stock tune will run such a mild build and idle without dying. lets see a log of when it's dying.

do not tune around a problem, it's a 26 year old car so anything could be wrong

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I completely agree, I know I have check engine codes but I am not sure how to read. I know the first time I got it to communicate it would read with the ground in pin #4 on the diagnostic port but would not write until I switched the ground to pin #5. I do not know if this has anything to do with it but I'm sure if that is the case I could easily make my device switchable between read and write. So what was the best and safest way to retrieve trouble codes?

The check engine light will be on if you delete things and not disable them in the computer I would verify what it is

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Originally Posted by Stroked 388

The check engine light will be on if you delete things and not disable them in the computer I would verify what it is

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its easier to read the codes, first. i deleted the egr and a few other things, that was not it. not sure why i cant see the error codes in eehack.

It works perfectly for me. I see you made your cable ? I bought mine pre made possible that could be your problem but I'm in no means a expert

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Originally Posted by Stroked 388

It works perfectly for me. I see you made your cable ? I bought mine pre made possible that could be your problem but I'm in no means a expert

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I do not have a problem with the cable, it only has to do with the read/write interface. this is switchable but I am not running as a constant. My write time is about 2-3 minutes with O/S change and is about 30 seconds with Cal only. I tracked down a vacuum leak and realized a certain problem. The car will idle like a champ but once it warms up the rpms race to about 2000. The IAT is routed incorrectly so I will have to address this issue. If I hook those two grounds together it will fry the pcm for sure. LOL i need to start another thread.

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Originally Posted by LSVolvo940

I do not have a problem with the cable, it only has to do with the read/write interface. this is switchable but I am not running as a constant. My write time is about 2-3 minutes with O/S change and is about 30 seconds with Cal only.

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you are talking like an OBD-II tuner or someone who has read about OBD-II tuning. this isn't an OBD-II ECM. you can't 'os change' and 'cal only' with this ECM, you can only flash the complete t-side or complete e-side. both contain the 'OS' and the 'CAL' for that side in one. there's no 'segment swapping' or 'os changing' with this ECM, this is old stuff.

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not sure why i cant see the error codes in eehack.

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most codes show in the main datastream but some only show in the secondary diagnostic datastream. see this faq: http://fbodytech.com/eehack-2/eehack...scan_for_codes

if there are no codes there, and your check engine light is still lit, something might be screwy with the check engine light wiring. you can toggle the check engine light in the 'control' section too, as a test.

I found a bunch of wires that were either smashed or chewed by rodents. so the single grn/blk is ECT i assume. it was left open. I'm calling this car the FIELD RAT.

ok, thanks. I thought I had it working before but it would not reflash so i changed my ground to a different slot. Never changed since then. i will try that.

wired in some coolant temp sensor, it has 2 wires in the pigtail, ran one to ground and pone to the dark green and black wire. had to unhook the battery and take out the starter signal wire to get the knock sensor and block ground up where i could work on it. They had the block ground hooked to the KS and the Ks not hooked up at all. it seemed to start a little better but it was brief because it is getting late. i still think there is something wrong with the iacv because it is hunting a wide range of rpm. could be another problem. i will check all of the codes when i have a chance during the day some time.

the coolant temp sensor is critical for startup.

if the knock sensor isn't connected correctly and functioning it will throw a code, and when it throws a code, it'll drop a lot of timing advance (i think 9 degrees), but it wouldn't affect startup.

if you log IAC vs RPM and graph it, you can learn a lot about what it's trying to do, and how well of a job it's doing.

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Originally Posted by LSVolvo940

I do not have a problem with the cable, it only has to do with the read/write interface. this is switchable but I am not running as a constant. My write time is about 2-3 minutes with O/S change and is about 30 seconds with Cal only. I tracked down a vacuum leak and realized a certain problem. The car will idle like a champ but once it warms up the rpms race to about 2000. The IAT is routed incorrectly so I will have to address this issue. If I hook those two grounds together it will fry the pcm for sure. LOL i need to start another thread.

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I only was able to retrieve codes with the system running. Wrote on a piece of paper and went through diag in tunerpro. car runs great now. cam sounds small to me, who knows. first set of codes were A/T codes that were 6 active codes. The other 2 codes were 26 and 29 which are EVAP codes. Deleted error codes and it runs like a top. New gears in rear end and trying to delete abs and brake light. Also ASR is off but it has no switch hooked so it stays off if that makes sense.