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Does anyone have the 64K bootable image that can be flashed to the 28F512 PLCC on a 1995 LT1 PCM? I've got everything set up and ready to burn, just doen't have an image! I read in another forum that either the first or last 64K of the 128K PCM image can be loaded into the PLCC to get it talking again, so if someone can confirm this I would be set to go. --Brian
do you happen to know which side you're playing with? for sake of not having to do it again, it would probably be best to do the correct half.
here are both halves of BNDH, which according to the label attached to it, came from a 95 corvette.
Appreciate the info and the files...I believe I'm working on the T-side (gray/blue).
here is what I have
based on that, blue and gray is the T-side. good to know.
Just wanted to let you guys know that after many hours of trying to repair a 16188051 that flash-crashed I got it up and running. The desoldering, soldering in a socket and flashing the chip was the easy part. I tried many (many) bin combinations and the one that finally worked was the combination above by 96lt4c4.
First flash attempt and PCM is back on line and easily flashed with my final bin.
Thanks all
Hey EdZip,
This is fantastic! I am lucky to have found this thread. Not two hours ago, I bricked my '95 LT1 PCM while flashing with WinFlash. I have never had a problem flashing with anything else. Today I decided to try WinFlash and it killed it.
I cannot communicate with it anymore. The LEDs on my ALDL adapter won't even flash anymore. They used to go wild as soon as I plug in the laptop.
I was going to send it out to the TunerCat people. They say the can fix it for $25 but, I see here you were able to bring it back from the dead. Would you mind it too much to paraphrase what you did? I am not foreign to electronics, so if you want to get down to techs, I am fine with that.
I am not trying to get out of the $25, I really want to learn how to do this since I have the feeling this is going to happen again. I want to get the EEPROM on a ZIF if that is possible and buy a dozen of of those little suckers just to be on the safe. :)
Could you please share the knowledge?
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winchy
Follow this thread:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...-repair-source
BUT bookmark this thread...it has the (2) bin files that worked. As a matter of fact the repaired PCM is still in the car working great. If you run into any problems...just send me an email.
Ed
I'm all over this like soy sauce on a dumpling. Thanks man!
Killed my 16188051 this weekend mid flash. I cannot find the ED80009-ND socket nor the AN28F512 chip online besides in bulk. I tried searching many different keywords without any luck. I've replace a few bios chips in the past that were pre programmed and many integrated video chips with my cheap flow bench. I'm wondering do I really want to spend all this time "trying" to get this going. I am willing to do so but if there is someone reliable that can install the socket and program a few chips I may take that route. I've got another ECM already but a socketed ECM would be great for future bricked units. Thank you
Found some Flash AN28F512 chips. Will any eprom socket work? Sorry for the back to back post. I have some free time at the office.
Finally got the programmer in yesterday. It 3 tries but the 3rd times the charm right. The first time I used the Flash BlueGray file above. After I programmed the chip and installed all seemed well. The fans didn't come on like when it's bricked. I used TunerCats and it got maybe 30% and had a wrong message sent error. Next go round I used the BNDH FirstHalf file. After installing the fans came on immediately so it was a no go right off the bat. Third try I used another chip and went back to the Flash BlueGray file and I also used EEHack. I did the stability test first and passed all 15 and I knew we had something. Flashed my latest bin file. The ole LT1 came to life! Thank you all for the help.
make sure your chips are the correct height in the socket. i had a hell of a time. if they are too low the pins make poor contact
Seconded:Quote:
Originally Posted by steveo
I've read that a couple of times and without a small piece of credit card (old) underneath they were flaky.
I also had to do the same with the programmer.
I also found a light polish on the pins & the socket helped. Used the edge of a sharp knife just lightly to clean up the faces.
Mitch
The PLCC sockets have a plastic "floor" in them that you have to cut out to hand-solder them, if you're hot-air soldering then it may not have to be removed? Anyway-you MUST put that floor back in after you've soldering them in place, or they will absolutely not work.
Sometimes even with the floor in place they don't work...
Here ya go:
Thanks for the advice. I did install the floor after installing the first chip the very first time I could tell right off it was too far down. Had a hard time pulling the chip out with the tool too. I didn't clean the pins besides a quick blow on them. The two errors I could have really been due to a pin not connecting correctly. Man it feels good to have this socketed. Now lets hope the E Side doesn't muff up or I'll be doing it but hey all it takes is a little time. Thanks for the info guys!
Well I'm first to admit when I do something stupid. Few weeks ago I was not able to connect to the PMC to flash. The engine would cut off and on repeatedly. I opened the PCM up and all my soldering joints had blue corrosion. I now know it was from crappy acid core flux. Not sure about the solder but sure it was also. I ended up getting quality rosin core no clean "yea right" of both. I soldered another socket on an untouched PCM that came out of a B-Body. I did an amazing job this go round. Got me some X3 old man glasses haha that really helped see what I was doing.
I'm still having a problem. I have tried the Flash Blue Gray bin that worked before and even tried the BNDH one. Fans come on soon as I turn the key on. I have tried several cut outs for the floor to test out the chip height in the socket but still no go. I have a floor picked out that I will be using that puts the chip about level with the top of the socket. I have triple checked the pins that I can get to on the socket with a tester and all test ok.
I did clean the socket pins gently before installing the first chip but I do see a little residue on then that I'm fixing to try to polish up with a knife or something. Man this sucks. All I wanted is to hear the ole girl fire up on Christmas :)
Guys I don't know what to say. I'm so disappointed. I checked every pin with a meter and by seeing if they were firmly soldered by lightly pushing on them with the back side of a knife. I did find one that looked soldered and tested ok with meter tho the pin would move so I fixed that. I checked them all every time I had a failed attempt because I just didn't know what was causing the fans to come on right off the bat. I tried 10 different chip install heights. I just don't know.
Makes no sense that my last socket install was sloppy in my opinion and worked great till the corrosion issue. This one I really thought it work the very first try and now look at me. I feel good it isn't the socket but at this point I don't know. This was an untouched PCM. If it was the other one I think it was just ruined. Man I just want my car to run with a socketed PCM.
Could the E-Side be messed up? I never tried the BNDH file again and maybe I should. I'm flashing the chip with a programmer using Intel N28F512 in the programmer. That is correct right? I didn't save the job as they call it the last time a few months ago but that's what I remember choosing as far as the chip selection to program. I do see an AMD AM28F512 chip. Maybe I'll try that to flash the chip and see how she does tho I really remember using the N28F512 one selected.
Can you communicate with the PCM via aldl bus.
If you get data, tside flash and bin is good. And you should check eside.Maybe the eside on the PCM is bricked.{Runnig fans point to that}
Also there is two types of raw bins. One is full of zeroes, the other with FFs
Try reading the bin with eehack.
And see what side can you communicate with.
Thank you kur4o for the help. I can't connect to the PCM at all at the moment using aldl at all. To program the chip I'm using a TL66 chip programmer. I just located the last known working 28F512 chip that was on my last PCM and gave it a read. Looking at the data from the TL66 it appears to be the BNDH bin file. I may have got the Flash Blue Gray file mixed up with the BNDH one. I haven't tried the BNDH file since I found that one pin not soldered because I thought for sure it didn't work on my last socket job. I hope I'm just a big dummy and got the two files mixed up. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for the help. I need it
I haven't done any chip flashing for a long time....but FYI I "kinda" remember a situation where I used the AMD AM28F512 chip data. Try it won't hurt. Try reversing and reflashing the chips...hope you have extra chips?
Thanks EDZIP, I do have 9 chips total. Well tried the BNDH file and fans came right on as I turn the key. I actually tried to start it for craps and giggles and would fire right up but go dead 5 sec later. It did this every start up. It would not connect with aldl cable. I do have 3-4 virgin chips I'll play with. I just don't understand. I did a much much better job on this solder job and now look at me. It has nothing to do with it being a B-Body PCM right. I know that is stupid question being the PCM part numbers are the same but I just thinking. It is for sure an Intel chip. I'll get it. It's hard for me to give up on something. If you guys think of something please let me know. I'll keep you posted.
I apologize for hijacking this post. Finally had time to mess with it today. After much testing I finally got it going. Apparently the chip has to be seated way further up than I thought. I know a lot of you told me that was something to no over look and knew that had to be the issue. I stacked 4 cut pieces of credit card for the floor. I tried from none all the way up till I got to the 4th piece before it worked.
On the first PCM that had the corrosion. I removed the socket and put a new one in. It's the same way being that it needed 4 pieces of credit card for the floor. I don't understand how when I did that first one, one piece worked and not now. Ohh well both are working,,,,,so far haha.
Thank you for all the help guys!
Good for you..I suspect that the spring tension and contact alignment were affected during the R&R process. Could be the sockets also..if you get in a bind I have extras that were made in Israel.
I thought I had replied. Thanks EDZIP, where did you purchase your sockets. I have 2 types in which both have their pros and cons.
isn't that annoying? i struggled with this for ages too.Quote:
I apologize for hijacking this post. Finally had time to mess with it today. After much testing I finally got it going. Apparently the chip has to be seated way further up than I thought. I know a lot of you told me that was something to no over look and knew that had to be the issue. I stacked 4 cut pieces of credit card for the floor. I tried from none all the way up till I got to the 4th piece before it worked.
On the first PCM that had the corrosion. I removed the socket and put a new one in. It's the same way being that it needed 4 pieces of credit card for the floor. I don't understand how when I did that first one, one piece worked and not now. Ohh well both are working,,,,,so far haha.
Thank you for all the help guys!
you would figure if you put the plastic piece back that you broke out before soldering, it would be ok.. but for some reason that height isn't quite right either.
i found that if you look very carefully at the socket and insert the chip very slowly, you can see the socket pins move a bit when they begin to make contact, so you can tell what the maximum height is, and then set it a bit lower.
i never quite trusted my socketed ecm for a running vehicle after seeing how finicky the sockets were.