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As in the title, 88 corvette, ARAP bin IIRC.
I've got tunerpro RT and Moates APU1 installed.
Just looking for someone to point me towards what needs to be done to turn off the fault codes for the AIR solenoids. Mine is being removed and i don't want to find a place to tuck the solenoids in the engine bay so the ECM "sees" them.
I haven't gotten back into the calibration yet as I'm still doing the mechanical removal.
Thanks.
Uh oh.
Just looked in $32b. No tables or flags for AIR system.....at least not in the ones I downloaded from the tunerpro site.
Any ideas on how to proceed? I'm a half decent beginner at tuning, but writing in a value to the def file is beyond my abilities.....
I may have found the answer to my own question:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...ed-needed.html
In post #11, gent posts a modified $6E with the AIR values already added.
If I understand it correctly, I can use a $6E to adjust my Bin, which is a $32B.
Or, I have been toying with the idea of swapping to an 89 bin in order to disable the cold start injector. Maybe now is the time....
Hiya,
Just experience. I have always thrown away the early cold start injector operating systems and begin with a 1989 year calibration. IMO why wouldn't you always start with the latest calibrations for a particular ecu and tune that?
GM systems are very logical.
Well, as a beginner, the car came with the $32b mask and everything works as per, so I started with something that works and learned from it. Still a long way to go, but it seems might be time to "step up" to 6E and ditch the cold start injector. It also appears that the 6E is a little bit more "fleshed out" than the 32b....Quote:
Originally Posted by In-Tech
Well, loaded up $6E today. Running ok after some odd behaviors at first. One was fan on/off temps weren’t following the values in the calibration, another was it would randomly speed up and drop back to idle and the oddest one was the engine would just shut down when ect hit 210f and it would crank but refuse to start. That last one has me stumped as to why. Probably a bad upload due to some kind of power spike or imbalance. Tried a fresh upload and it all went away.
I have noticed that it takes either two attempts to start or an extended crank. Kinda sounds like the fuel relay might be bad and the fuel pressure in the rails isn’t building until the oil press switch makes continuity. I’ll have to put the fuel press gauge on it and dig a little deeper tomorrow.
Its also stinking tou out of the garage with a rich smell. But this is a summer car and the fuel in it is still from last fall, so I’ll burn it off and put fresh fuel in it. Then, a fresh datalogging run should (hopefully) point me in the right direction if the pig rich smell remains.
No cats on this car either. The precats and the main cat was hollowed out when I got it.
I don't know the specifics but seem to recall reading that there maybe wiring differences between $32 and $6E.
Not from what I’ve read. Few flags are/may be different, nothing “physical”, out aide of the cold start injector that is...Quote:
Originally Posted by stew86MCSS396
I think it had something with the change to newer style weatherpack connector so while labeled different, operates the same. :thumbsup: