You can try this bin.
It`s 94 a4, 3.23 gears, stock file.
Cal id is 16210011 wich is the latest update fix for your vin
Your stock bin information
Vin 2G1FP22P4R2121999
CAL id 16199611
Check yourself here:
https://tis2web.service.gm.com/tis2web
Printable View
You can try this bin.
It`s 94 a4, 3.23 gears, stock file.
Cal id is 16210011 wich is the latest update fix for your vin
Your stock bin information
Vin 2G1FP22P4R2121999
CAL id 16199611
Check yourself here:
https://tis2web.service.gm.com/tis2web
Can I open two tuner pro and copy values from my old EEB 94 bin into my 95 pcm and flash them to it? Use difference tool to see what needs to change and simply change them all?
You can use the difference tool but you have to make sure you don't copy the data that is mapped wrong and is bad.
I'm not sure why you're stuck on a 95 bin. The PCM doesn't care which year of bin you use and there was a 94 bin posted for you.
I'm not stuck on it just sketched out because of that checksum error I seen before; I believe that is what caused all of this.... I know I seen something about a checksum popup before the killer flash was uploaded.
Thanks a ton for that bin, it worked great... I took the chance tonight without a spare and went ahead and flashed the 94 tune you supplied; my torque converter is now locking up like it should, and my speedo isn't 15mph off still.... and most importantly my shift points are back I can actually cruise at 2200rpm instead of 2800...
Now I just wish I would have went ahead and lowered those fan temps, applied the WOT BLM Locker and maybe even dropped the shift points a little more to help with the slapping rev limiter; also sometimes when it kicks down it slaps rev limiter then goes to next gear, I need that tuned out... I guess now that I know I can do it myself I will have to make some more changes and flash my spare when I get it... definitely will want a new spare.
Do you guys know anyone who fixes bad PCMs?
With 3500 rpm stall torque converter, upshifts doesn`t work because of the stall wall.
It`s known problem with the lt1 pcm.
Do some google search how to fix that and post the working formula.
Transmission is different between 94 and 95 and you shouldn`t mix bins.
That is what I was thinking, the stall definitely has a part to play in that. I will do some checking, and probably talk with Keith of PCMFORLESS to see what they do for large stalls like that if he'll share!Quote:
Originally Posted by kur4o
I didn't mix the bins, I wanted to copy values over but it is not necessary now that I have a stock 94 bin that is up-to-date... I don't think I have ever clenched my cheeks so tight while watching that flash; haha.
I thought it was that the VSS code would get set with a higher stall?
You should be able to enter low mph upshift settings into the kickdown tables and then use the rpm table to select the shift point. I've never read anything that says you can't tune for the converter, just that the car won't shift with a bigger stall when it's a stock tune.
I had to fix my PCM in the fall. I tried to change a table in Tunercat while flashing - don't do this....
Well I am unsure of how I would fix it, I am definitely not very handy with a soldering iron (haven't messed with them much though)...Quote:
Originally Posted by lionelhutz
This sounds like a good idea with the low MPH upshifts, but wouldn't it bother the cruising speed shifts? I am gonna try to up that VSS diagnostic enable to 4,000 RPM and see how that helps me out. I haven't ever seen the "limp mode" where it will only stay in 2nd and 3rd; but I definitely see it hitting the rev limiter on upshifts on occasion and sometimes the car downshifts right into redline requiring an upshift right after!!
I do not plan on changing any pressure or shift times really because I cannot afford to rebuild a trans right now; I already have a shift kit and it shifts pretty good... smooth and still "strong". I'd rather keep it safe.. I would like to see WOT up/down shifts be tuned out; I guess it is just trial and error, gotta get a spare PCM and mess with it.
The problem with bricked LT1 pcms is that it's cheaper to get another one out of a junkyard than it is to try to fix it. You've gotta unsolder a tiny chip, flash it with a chip flasher ($100 or so), then reconnect it onto the board, either soldering or soldering a socket on the board and then putting the chip in there in case you get another write failure. there are two memory chips on the 8051 boards; usually I've only seen one fail (it switches over at 50% loaded, which is why it hangs for a few seconds then continues loading).
Well I guess I will just scrap my spare and get another... Sounds like to much work to fix them. I thought I heard of a guy fixing them for cheap though....
Any other tips for the tune? I would like to have a dyno tune but nobody tunes lt1 cars around here... I want to add some timing and get my AFR corrected to make some more power and take advantage of the CAi and cat back... Obviously the stall and trans need a tune badly
I don't know of anyone that fixes them now. There were a few people that used to do it but they quit, likely because there wasn't much demand. If you're interested in selling it I might fix it myself and keep it for a spare. I only have the parts to fix 1 more.
First thing I'd do with the transmission is drop 10 or 15 mph from the kickdown mode table. Then, drop the rpm in the rpm table to around 5000rpm. Try it and see where it shifts. Then adjust the rpm table until it shifts where you want the shift. Log it and pick out the speed and rpm you get right when it shifts. You can use the speeds in the main shift table so the kickdown and main speed tables blend as you transition to WOT.
Well, I'm back and I just read through all of my posts... I sounded like a complete noob. :mad1:
Anyway, been logging daily with steveo's EEHack and tuning with TP and TunerCat, have got some good results thus far on the transmission tables and handling my stall. I am now researching into VE, MAF & O2 tuning for part & wot/PE tuning.
As of right now, my BLMs are around 113-122 at 0-20% TPS with the right side reading a little richer due to the left o2 dying on me last week and i COULD NOT get the right one out to change them both.. will have to try and tackle that again this weekend. Cleaned the MAF, made sure no vac leaks... I would like to work on my part-throttle stuff a little more before the upcoming dyno day so I can focus on the PE/WOT tuning with my fresh wideband install then. The consistency of a wideband at cruise is bad; so i'm guessing you guys are tuning at part/cruise via BLM?
Thanks for all the help thus far guys!
*edit > also found that my current PCM in car is running a B-Body Knock Module... Placed the LT1 F-Body Knock module from my spare pcm in it to see how that helps with the remaining knock retard.