Hiya, it's amazing how different harness's will vary the offsets too, so adjust accordingly. There is no magic number.
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Hiya, it's amazing how different harness's will vary the offsets too, so adjust accordingly. There is no magic number.
I can’t figure out how to use that calculator deal to understand the data for ee
With that data my IPW is 9.55 at 6500 wot
precision is something you learn about, and too much of it will slow you down
i see you've realized that in tunerpro, a lot of the time the value you enter doesn't end up exact when it's saved to the bin.
that's because tunerpro allows you to enter pretty much anything (like 1.234) where in reality the value in your bin is usually in 8 bit (only 256 possible values) or 16 bits (only 65536 possible values) and can't be that precise, so when you save, close the table, and then re-open it, you'll see the 'real' value.
tunerpro doesn't really do a good job of presenting that limitation when you're entering data but that's okay because it stops you being distracted by unnecessary precision.
it's really common that you get some data that you need to set a value to 1.234 but the ECM's code only allows it to be 1 or something, and in those cases you get what you get
so, lets see how your tables ended up?
an engine like this at wide open throttle isn't a very precise machine with regards to fuel. in my experience injector voltage offsets make barely any difference to how your engine runs at very high airflows
Thanks for the reply makes a lot of sense. The motor runs great just recent after injector change idle has been a tough one in park it’s great but when I put in gear is a different story but I guess it could be my TB not letting enough air pass so I been looking into that also. I have noticed if I run the factory offset it is more drivable so that is the road I have taken. Thank you for taking the time to help me out I have learn a lot from the program and the eehack program. I also have a engine dyno program that helps me with fine tuning my VE table that really has made a difference. Next week I’ll know for sure how great my tune is as I will be strapping it down on a real dyno to see what my numbers are and afr mixture really is. I do know it’s putting down some power I give the new mustangs a run for there money at are not stock lol.
idle on an LT1 is really annoying to deal with, you need to get most of your air through the idle passages in your plenum rather than your throttle plates. they run best when you keep the plates totally shut and the IAC counts up. a 383 usually needs the idle air hole in the throttle body enlarged a bit. use eehack to mess with your timing advance at idle to see what it likes too. also don't be afraid to just increase your idle speed a bit until it behaves...