94 Camaro v6 lost key VATS/No Start

I have been keeping my eye on the car for a while, chilling like a villian with weeds growing up around it. The story is the owner lost the key so I talked to the guy Dakota who bought it and was changing the key and ignition in it, gave him my number. He messages me and says he cant get the car to crank over. I think I'm going to buy it but I don't know where to get the bin for the v6. I also have a 95 Z28 I use flash hack , eehack and tunerpro. Being a v6 car I don't know what the difference would be, not changing the mapping just vats delete.

flashhack should work with it
should just be able to read the bin, disable vats, and write it back
xdf in this thread. http://gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injecti...rmation-P66-V6

Isn't there also a starter relay that would also need bypassing?

I believe the module in that car used a fixed resistor. Maybe just buy a kit with the resistors and try them until it starts. It just means trying one and then waiting 20 minutes or so before trying the next resistor. It's 15 resistor values. I think the middle resistances are the most used.

I crawled up under there the other day. Could hear the starter relay clicking. I will get on my tuning laptop and load the xdf. Im owing Steveo beer now. This one actually uses the regular 0bd1 port so I will have to look at the rx/tx and ground layout. I have the db15 Breakout connector and a standard ALDL to DB15 cable connector. I thought it was less thought intensive to just y bridge rx/tx and tin two ends. Should I need the ftdi adapter or will it work without?

you do have to bypass the starter interrupt too, that's true, unless it's already been done, which maybe it has been if it's clicking.

the cable from your 1995 will work fine. you can google pictures of either connector to figure the pins out.

the 'older' connector uses top right as ground, and bottom right as data. the 'newer' cable uses bottom left as data, and the 5th pin in the top row as ground.

I already snapshotted a diagram of both ports for 94 and 95 Camaro. Clicks but no crank, its been 4 days since I looked at it for the first time briefly. The keys supplied measure 7.5k ohms. I will have to look and see where the relay is. It seems like its right behind the console near the stereo but I did not get a handle on the relay that clicks when i turn the key to crank.

I bought the car this morning. $300 plus a little trade on some items. Apparently the battery is junk. I'm going to try flashing it tomorrow if it runs and rives I will just clean it up and drive it. Will build an engine for the are in the meantime, probably the 6.0 local Napa manager has for sale "whole truck minus bed" . If I keep the 4l60e I have a very nice complete performance rebuild kit with boost valve monster sun shell transgo kit and all new parts. If I'm too dumb to get it running I can just ls swap it.

I hooked up to the car and tried to read the calibration and no success yet I'm waiting now. hopefully the vats just has me locked for 10 minutes or so. Successfully connected to ALDL Bus and Reconnecting to ALDL Bus , repeatedly over and over on prompts in flashhack. Makes two clicks when it connects and pops up unable to load kernel. Fans do not kick on and when i go to eehack it reads all kinds of weird numbers and codes off and on without the engine running. still no start.

You might need to disconnect battery. I suggest you flash this pcm on bench. It is very fragile and prone to bricking in car.

eehack is configured to work with v8s[that can explain the weird numbers]. There is a modfied version to work on v6s floating around the site but can`t find the link.

I tried all that, so I pulled this pcm out and have it on my desk right now. wiring is hooked up as follows Black plug, 30 and 31 12v, Blue plug , 3 12v, 1 ground, 30 serial data. Still doing the same B.S. chances are they did something stupid and bricked the pcm before I tried to read Calibration. Just gotta do a little more digging, if there is some difference ill figure that out. So the 03 P59 i have was a brick and i fixed that after i cloned it, saved the file on my desktop one night when I was drunk with Hammer. Cloned it and fixed the old one. Don't know about the lt1 or 94 v6 this is my second one. First one runs and i drive it and been tuning it.

This wiring is for lt1 pcm. for v6s is totally wrong. I hope you didn`t fry the hardware.

Black
b14 b15 B+
B32 Ground
B19 serial data

Blue
C3 - ign
c17 ,C1 ground

Lets see if you get any communication than might do some more tests.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kur4o

This wiring is for lt1 pcm. for v6s is totally wrong. I hope you didn`t fry the hardware.

Black
b14 b15 B+
B32 Ground
B19 serial data

Blue
C3 - ign
c17 ,C1 ground

Lets see if you get any communication than might do some more tests.

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Shouldn't have if I had no ground on the black, everything was dead. Had some connection in the car but something was keeping it from reading.

black
b30 vss input high
b31 5volt output for sensors

You might got lucky both circuits should have protection for short to battery.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kur4o

black
b30 vss input high
b31 5volt output for sensors

You might got lucky both circuits should have protection for short to battery.

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Still never worked though from the beginning. I just ordered a spare Pcm from ebay . Kinda makes me mad to get it towed here where I have everything its like $120 and its less than half a mile from the tow service to the car and back to my house. No clue, I did what I was supposed to do with it in the car and would not read. I would be much farther ahead to build the trans and ls swap it. Thats more money though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LSVolvo940

I hooked up to the car and tried to read the calibration and no success yet I'm waiting now. hopefully the vats just has me locked for 10 minutes or so. Successfully connected to ALDL Bus and Reconnecting to ALDL Bus , repeatedly over and over on prompts in flashhack. Makes two clicks when it connects and pops up unable to load kernel.

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i don't think VATS will stop you from reflashing that ECM,

can you confirm are you using the EE flash tool or the P66 flash tool within flashhack?

when you get it hooked back up if you still have problems please post a log from the debug section and maybe we can see what's wrong.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveo

i don't think VATS will stop you from reflashing that ECM,

can you confirm are you using the EE flash tool or the P66 flash tool within flashhack?

when you get it hooked back up if you still have problems please post a log from the debug section and maybe we can see what's wrong.

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It says EE Bin Converter in tools so im assuming that means EE Flash tool. I only have a snapshot from De-Bug in car with my computer hooked up. Trying to think of a way to host it , hold on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveo

i don't think VATS will stop you from reflashing that ECM,

can you confirm are you using the EE flash tool or the P66 flash tool within flashhack?

when you get it hooked back up if you still have problems please post a log from the debug section and maybe we can see what's wrong.

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No TSIDE communication. Whatever that means. OH no I fried it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LSVolvo940

It says EE Bin Converter in tools so im assuming that means EE Flash tool.

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the ee bin converter is always there

and why in hell would you use the EE tool with a P66 V6 ECM

go to the tools menu

select tool

my tools are easy to use but they don't hold your hand with simple stuff like 'selecting the completely wrong ECM'
change to v6 tool

plus you need to actually read the text that appears

you will see either

Code:

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flashhack Version 1.1
Configured processor EE with interface ALDL 8192 Serial
This is a flash read/write processor for the 16188051 and 16181333 ECMs used on 1994-1995 LT1 engines.

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or

Code:

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flashhack Version 1.1
Configured processor P66 with interface ALDL 8192 Serial
This is a flash read/write processor for P66 V6 ECMs used on 3100 and 3.4L engines from 1993-1995.

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it should be totally obvious if using the wrong tool

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveo

i don't think VATS will stop you from reflashing that ECM,

can you confirm are you using the EE flash tool or the P66 flash tool within flashhack?

when you get it hooked back up if you still have problems please post a log from the debug section and maybe we can see what's wrong.

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Went to desktop with my ALDL cable. Selected p66 Flask tool "includes 3.4l" She's talkin now. I don't think I fried anything I figured out where my power issue was. Sure ill have a problem creating and modifying the bin.

Got it to read and created BIN plus loaded p66 XDF File . I am rather perplexed by the BIN File. This Might Take some Time. It is working now as far as I can tell.




Disabled VATS and Maxxed out frequency on other two VATS options. PCM is flashed on the desk. Worked Flawlessly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveo

i don't think VATS will stop you from reflashing that ECM,

can you confirm are you using the EE flash tool or the P66 flash tool within flashhack?

when you get it hooked back up if you still have problems please post a log from the debug section and maybe we can see what's wrong.

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Went in to tools selected p66 on my desktop. Read and write in about a minute each. I had a power issue though and that's why it wasn't connecting. It would have worked in the car if I just selected p66 Flash in the first place. Completely forgot about the tools because I have been on lt1 for the past 2 months.

Put the pcm back in the car, still has security light. this thing is a different animal. I don't know what all to change to make vats go off . I disabled vats and maxxed out values on the HZ settings for vats. Doesn't run yet. security stayed on when I took the key out so something isn't right.

Do you have the vin of the car. You need to select vats off bit and don`t worry about the HZ.
The vats module also commands the dash light so unless you put a correct value resistor it will stay on. Does the engine cranks or there is no crank at all. Or does it start and dies immediately. The vats light should be flashing too, not solid on.

Runs like a champ still, selected p66 utility in flashhack, read and write with vats deleted, still no dice. would not crank so traced the fat purple wire to the starter solenoid and jumped it out at the relay under the dash on the passenger side. Multiple bad brake lines I have to fix. repaired power steering.