It works perfectly for me. I see you made your cable ? I bought mine pre made possible that could be your problem but I'm in no means a expert
It works perfectly for me. I see you made your cable ? I bought mine pre made possible that could be your problem but I'm in no means a expert
I do not have a problem with the cable, it only has to do with the read/write interface. this is switchable but I am not running as a constant. My write time is about 2-3 minutes with O/S change and is about 30 seconds with Cal only. I tracked down a vacuum leak and realized a certain problem. The car will idle like a champ but once it warms up the rpms race to about 2000. The IAT is routed incorrectly so I will have to address this issue. If I hook those two grounds together it will fry the pcm for sure. LOL i need to start another thread.Originally Posted by Stroked 388
you are talking like an OBD-II tuner or someone who has read about OBD-II tuning. this isn't an OBD-II ECM. you can't 'os change' and 'cal only' with this ECM, you can only flash the complete t-side or complete e-side. both contain the 'OS' and the 'CAL' for that side in one. there's no 'segment swapping' or 'os changing' with this ECM, this is old stuff.
most codes show in the main datastream but some only show in the secondary diagnostic datastream. see this faq: http://fbodytech.com/eehack-2/eehack...scan_for_codesnot sure why i cant see the error codes in eehack.
if there are no codes there, and your check engine light is still lit, something might be screwy with the check engine light wiring. you can toggle the check engine light in the 'control' section too, as a test.
I found a bunch of wires that were either smashed or chewed by rodents. so the single grn/blk is ECT i assume. it was left open. I'm calling this car the FIELD RAT.
ok, thanks. I thought I had it working before but it would not reflash so i changed my ground to a different slot. Never changed since then. i will try that.
wired in some coolant temp sensor, it has 2 wires in the pigtail, ran one to ground and pone to the dark green and black wire. had to unhook the battery and take out the starter signal wire to get the knock sensor and block ground up where i could work on it. They had the block ground hooked to the KS and the Ks not hooked up at all. it seemed to start a little better but it was brief because it is getting late. i still think there is something wrong with the iacv because it is hunting a wide range of rpm. could be another problem. i will check all of the codes when i have a chance during the day some time.
the coolant temp sensor is critical for startup.
if the knock sensor isn't connected correctly and functioning it will throw a code, and when it throws a code, it'll drop a lot of timing advance (i think 9 degrees), but it wouldn't affect startup.
if you log IAC vs RPM and graph it, you can learn a lot about what it's trying to do, and how well of a job it's doing.
I only was able to retrieve codes with the system running. Wrote on a piece of paper and went through diag in tunerpro. car runs great now. cam sounds small to me, who knows. first set of codes were A/T codes that were 6 active codes. The other 2 codes were 26 and 29 which are EVAP codes. Deleted error codes and it runs like a top. New gears in rear end and trying to delete abs and brake light. Also ASR is off but it has no switch hooked so it stays off if that makes sense.
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