Results 1 to 15 of 18

Thread: Bin/XDF 95 Z28

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Age
    38
    Posts
    62

    Bin/XDF 95 Z28

    I was able to connect Flashhack with my home made ALDL Cable . Read O/S and save Bin as, also connected to EEHack and I was able to verify Cal ID # 16209461. The logger is collecting data and everything works. The thing I am having trouble with is converting the Bin File into a format readable with TunerProRT. I also do not have an XDF File yet or a matching Bin file to modify. It would help to get a link on a good Bin and a Good XDF file. I will list the alleged setup so anyone reading can understand where I am at here in this stage of the project.

    Was told verbally these details about the setup or verified by myself taking the car apart and putting it back together.

    *95 Z28 Green LT1 T56 17x10 wheels
    *Rebuilt LT1 fresh heads, lt4 hot cam, crank looks new, 1.60 roller rockers blue with scorpions embossed, stock injectors, stock fuel delivery and new clutch.
    * Car never ran until I first started it up last week.
    *Will not idle
    * O/S Cal ID 16209461

    I have been putting this project off for a while and the other car I have needs a starter before I move it out. I would like to get it idling and able to drive around first thing tomorrow. I would just go for it but I'm sure there is a lot of corrupted information out there and I would like to be able to simply copy my system calibration and pair it with the correct xdf file. I literally have less than 10 hours in this project since I have gotten started any advice would be much appreciated.

  2. #2
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Age
    38
    Posts
    62
    Ok so here is what figured out, downloaded Bin file but it was an automatic. Still could not use my stock calibration as a Bin for Tunerpro. Modified bin, tried to flash and was not able to connect. What I did was use 2 wires with an ftdi chip rx/tx and ground. RX and TX are simply soldered together at the pins on the chip and ground is soldered to the ground. Rx and TX are ran to Slot#9 on obd port and ground was #4. When I tried to write the flash it would not connect. I switched the ground from slot #4 to Slot #5 and it flashed. The problem I had was that when I attempted to flash with ground in slot #4 the Pcm went dead like a brick. Also tried to use a Bin file that was labeled Y body and it started but would die out after a moment. Went back to the 95 auto bin and it runs. The car will idle but if you do not feather the throttle for a minute or so it will die within 10 seconds. Still runs rich. I will also need a wideband to make this car easier to tune. Not sure why but Believe that slot 4 ground means read and slot 5 ground is write. None of this makes any sense to me and it still runs pretty rich, i also added fuel on top so its manageable once i figure out the idle and take it for a drive.
    Last edited by LSVolvo940; 08-09-2021 at 06:13 AM.

  3. #3
    LT1 specialist steveo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    4,045
    It would help to get a link on a good Bin and a Good XDF file.
    here's pretty much every factory bin (you really need : http://fbodytech.com/tutorials/bin-files/

    here's a good xdf: http://fbodytech.com/eex-tunerpro-definition/

    don't run y-body bins on your f-body

    your car dying right after startup has nothing to do with the tune. the stock tune will run such a mild build and idle without dying. lets see a log of when it's dying.

    do not tune around a problem, it's a 26 year old car so anything could be wrong

  4. #4
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Age
    38
    Posts
    62
    IM getting it ironed out. Thanks for the help.

  5. #5
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Age
    38
    Posts
    62
    The IAT was non functional. The engine is built but left set in the yard for years never started. LT4 HotCam 1.60 Roller rocker. Said its bored No mention of stoking but crankshaft appears to be new. I reserve myself the right to tune this vehicle because it is not stock. Just picking up from where they lost it. Engine is allegedly Professionally built but have not gotten ahold of the person who did it. Lol what is a y body exactly that one didn't work but was the only one listed as a manual.

  6. #6
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    -(718)-
    Age
    49
    Posts
    205
    B-body: Caprice RoadMaster Sedans & Wagons (4L60E auto)
    D-body: Fleetwood & 'Commercial Chassis' (4L60E auto)
    F-body: Camaro & FireBird (4L60E or T56-manual)
    Y-body: Corvette (4L60E or T56-manual)
    THEY are NOT Lying to You.
    You are NOT Even Lying to Yourself.
    You ARE Being Lied to ... by Your SELF.
    The Last Psychiatrist, aka ... Alone ...


  7. #7
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Age
    38
    Posts
    62
    Next problem I have on hand, the car does have a 7.5 Posi 4.10 gears . the gearset is trashed, it literally looks like they left the pinion so it would ride the outside of the ring gear .100 backlash or so. I will hopefully have the new gearset in a week. Have new u joints and trans seems like it will shift ok. the car still will not idle and I have not pin pointed all of the trouble codes. Iat goes crazy if you drive it. Sticks around 2000 rpms and bobs up and down. Just a question though, i have logs on EEHack but can not find any codes, do i have to do a check with it plugged in and key on or does it have to be running. Service engine soon and a bunch of other lights are on all the time.

  8. #8
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Age
    38
    Posts
    62
    Quote Originally Posted by steveo View Post
    here's pretty much every factory bin (you really need : http://fbodytech.com/tutorials/bin-files/

    here's a good xdf: http://fbodytech.com/eex-tunerpro-definition/

    don't run y-body bins on your f-body

    your car dying right after startup has nothing to do with the tune. the stock tune will run such a mild build and idle without dying. lets see a log of when it's dying.

    do not tune around a problem, it's a 26 year old car so anything could be wrong
    I completely agree, I know I have check engine codes but I am not sure how to read. I know the first time I got it to communicate it would read with the ground in pin #4 on the diagnostic port but would not write until I switched the ground to pin #5. I do not know if this has anything to do with it but I'm sure if that is the case I could easily make my device switchable between read and write. So what was the best and safest way to retrieve trouble codes?

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •