New guy have some questions about all this.

[CK_32]

CK, I was able to look at your bin file. The pcm is for a vehicle with a vin number 1GNEC16Z16J147334> It was for C-1 model meaning will only allow bench read and writes. Doing that to a 2006 with 06 stuff is one thing, putting that into a platform that is 35 years before requires more stuff. I couldn't get a 2001 088 to make my 2000 run right. But right now you just want it to run. Worry about tuning later.

Holy crap man that’s a TON of info. As far as the BCM that actually kinda works out into my favor. I need that to run the 2015 dash I want to swap into the c10 so I can get readings on the same language as my trans and motor. Since the 85 is still mechanical speedo and other monitors. I also measured and it should actually fit. I want to give it a shot but I need the BCM to power and talk to the dash panel.

As far as the wiring I have the full harness which includes the pedal and PCM, as well as the 4L60 connections and all of those wires. I basically took everything from the donor to avoid head aches like these.I tried PCM hammer but it freezes every time I open any menus or leave it open for longer than 10 seconds. I’ve let it sit for 5 minutes but it still locks up. I’ve even uninstalled v18 for v17 and still the same exact issue. The only time it works is the first time. After that anytime I launch after 5 seconds the program runs but locks up on me. Doesn’t stop responding but locks up and doesn’t do anything. I can’t even close the program or windows.

My buddy helping me with this project does wiring for 4x4 builds he does so hopefully he can figure it all out. He’s going to wire my fuze box. So hopefully he can figure out all of the other things as well. Cause I’m mechanically inclined to say the least. But when it comes to wiring or coding is where I fall flat on my face. Which is why I want to learn it snd be able to do everything.

[trlrider]

CK, I was able to look at your bin file. The pcm is for a vehicle with a vin number 1GNEC16Z16J147334> It was for C-1 model meaning 2-wheel drive. Engine is a L59 5.3L MFI. Made in Janesville, WI. I have been working on vehicles for over 45 years. My first thought is your putting this engine into a 1985 C-10. I have owned one. It doesn't have a BCM, EBCM, or any other modules that are on a 2006 Suburban, Yukon XL, Envoy XL, Denali XL, Trailblazer EXT, Ascender or Escalade ESV. I tried to put a 0411 from 2002 Suburban onto my 1999 Suburban. In 2000, GM ran 2 wires from the PCM for Data. One is purple and the other is Yellow. The Yellow one goes to the BCM and this energizes the injectors. If you are going to put an engine from 2006 into a 1985 body, .................................................. .. and sensors that are used to make the d

- Lot's of great points, but overly complicated.
- There are a few ways to skin this cat, and some are not complicated at all.
- Just helped finish a 2006 5.3 swap into a 1986 Square Body, we used a '7603 OS in a P59. We also used the '04 intake, throttle body and peddle.
- Hand built stand alone harness. This one is not currently flex fuel, but he has the needed sensors and pigtails in the harness to make it such. There are only a couple of locations in our area to get E85
- Yes, ground straps in multiple locations to insure no issues there.

- we did not use factory gauges, vitals are to the driver thru a analog gauge set, all other vitals for the pcm are as the factory intended.
- runs great and the owner has had zero issues tuning it so far. Camshaft upgrade is in the works.


Cat_Fish_Hunter - maybe line breaks, paragraphs next time. Kinda like I did here! You post was very informative but very hard to read. Thank You!

[trlrider]

Holy crap man that’s a TON of info. As far as the BCM that actually kinda works out into my favor. I need that to run the 2015 dash I want to swap into the c10 so I can get readings on the same language as my trans and motor. Since the 85 is still mechanical speedo and other monitors. I also measured and it should actually fit. I want to give it a shot but I need the BCM to power and talk to the dash panel..

You are going to have a really tough go making a '15 cluster work with a '06 pcm. they use two different pcms and software architecture. BCM's are not even compatible and will not even talk to each other.

[trlrider]

06 ETC is not compatible with a 04 OS. It will go into reduced power mode. There are two sides to VATS. There is the starter enable which is in the OEM lock cylinder and BCM that enables the starter relay then there is the fuel side that is controlled by the PCM. (starts, runs for a second then dies. You can only disable the fuel part of VATS in the PCM. If you post your bin here you read out of your 06 PCM I can tell you more about what you have and even edit it for you.

One can use the conversion kit from Scoggins Dickey and eliminated that issue. My '04 LM7 Avalanche use the 2006 TBSS intake and Throttle Body with the factory ETC and the '7603 OS!

[2xls1]

One can use the conversion kit from Scoggins Dickey and eliminated that issue. My '04 LM7 Avalanche use the 2006 TBSS intake and Throttle Body with the factory ETC and the '7603 OS!

Not the same comparison at all. If you try and use the 06 LM7 or L59 ETC system with a 04 OS it will trigger REP.

[2xls1]

Is it going to be an issue if I try to upgrade to a 4L80 in the future?

In order to segment swap 4L80 segments into a 4L60 calibration the main OS numbers have to be the same. There is no 06 4L80 OS that matches a 06 53 FF OS. There is a gimicky way to run a 4L80 on a 4L60 calibration with some relays but I've never had much luck getting that way to work reliably. It's always better to segment swap IMO. All your variables are going to be if you want to do tuning yourself and if you are willing to buy commercial editing and logging products or try and do it with the free stuff. If you are going to stick with using 06 OS or if you switch to 04 and change what you will have to to make your ETC system compatible with a 04 OS and use the free stuff. And if you switch to the 04 that OS that has a XDF available is not FF. You really need to nail down what you want the build to be and stick with it and that will determine your options.

[CK_32]

Ok so I’m having another issue. I’m trying to flash that BIN file with VATs deleted and LS Droid tells me I have 0/3 previous flashes.

I found somewhere some guy had a similar issue and someone recommended they read and reflash the same OS onto their ECU.

Problem is when I try to do this LS droid gives me a low voltage warning saying it dropped to 12.2v….

But I’ve tried this on my Laptop power supply and a fresh truck battery and got he same issue. Even still 12.2 is above the 12v needed. Anyone know why I’m getting this error message?

Idk why this is turning out to be so difficult to accomplish. And for so many people doing LS swaps and using LS droid idk why there is so limited information aside from mechanical information.

I’m half tempted to purchase HP Tuners but just to delete and upload VATs this really seems to be overkill for the cost to value for me.

[2xls1]

Try PCM Hammer.

[trlrider]

Ok so I’m having another issue. I’m trying to flash that BIN file with VATs deleted and LS Droid tells me I have 0/3 previous flashes.

I found somewhere some guy had a similar issue and someone recommended they read and reflash the same OS onto their ECU.

Problem is when I try to do this LS droid gives me a low voltage warning saying it dropped to 12.2v….

But I’ve tried this on my Laptop power supply and a fresh truck battery and got he same issue. Even still 12.2 is above the 12v needed. Anyone know why I’m getting this error message?

Idk why this is turning out to be so difficult to accomplish. And for so many people doing LS swaps and using LS droid idk why there is so limited information aside from mechanical information.

I’m half tempted to purchase HP Tuners but just to delete and upload VATs this really seems to be overkill for the cost to value for me.

There a million and one post on this forum and dozens of others that tell you flashing on the vehicle is NOT Recommended, even in stand alone systems.
A bench harness with a reliable power supply that puts out at least 1 full watt of power and 12.6 or more volts.
Flashing a PCM in the vehicle with a run of the mill car charger is also not recommended, as the power signal is not clean, and you can possibly brick your pcm.

Yes, it is a safety feature in LS Droid that you must have 3 flashes before being able to write a PCM.
Protocols and Safety functions are put in place for a reason, just like traffic lights at busy intersections. To try and prevent a oops, a accident.
LS Droid for Windows works great if you just follow the instructions in it to the letter, and not some you tuber that just barely knows what they are doing. There are some great tutorials online, and on you-tube, but there are also dozens more of crappy, poorly executed advice video's.
Voltage is not the only thing that matters, wattage is also very important. People trying to use a 12 volts 1/2 wall wart will not get the job done. And even many laptop power supplies drop off badly.
Pete and Jason have put thousands of hours into this and their stuff works. Especially for Free.
Now, the OBDLINK LX/MX/MX+ will NOT work with LS Droid for Windows
LS Droid Legacy (for Android Devices) does still work, but I can tell you the makers of OBDLink devices change their firmware so often, that is may work with this update, and not the next. I have 2 OBDXPRO devices and a OBDLink MX+ device. All 3 work correctly in their given environments.
Everytime I try to flash/write a PCM in a vehicle it goes bad. Everytime I do it with my $8.00 homemade bench harness it works perfect.

If you have not already, get on Facebook, join the REAL LS Droid page, and first read through all the stickies at the top of the page, then read a couple of weeks back post. You can post your question there and Pete, Jason, or one of the long time users will help you fix your issue.

[rickky bobby]

The reason the bin shows pwm is the about 1999 to 2002 pcms have pwm for cameros and firedbirds. in 2003 pwm was not in these new pcms. so when your vats was edited it should be 01 not 02. 00 is vats enabled. 01 disabled then ff changed to fe so checksum is good. this is why you had trouble with the vats. i knew the checksum was wrong. this is why we needed to see the bin file to check. i have 2 2006 silverados i know what your dealing with. i would personally try to fit the 06 cluster into the dash or go with an app off the obd2 port to read things, my opinion.

[rickky bobby]

when i mean edited, i mean using a hex editor like neo. if you know where to look you can alter numbers and letters to change the coding. by the way if you use the new efi live download you will see checksum fail while reading bin files. older hp tuners 2.24 did read bin files, but the vats with pwm is not in the 2003 to 2007 so hp tuner reads pwm when it is not. newer hp tuners does not read bin files. efi live will show a ? when vats is altered but the checksum is bad.

[2xls1]

HP Tuners does not read the VATS wrong on P59s. Someone had changed his setting from the stock Serial setting to PWM. I changed to None correctly and there is no checksum error in the corrected bin I posted.

[CK_32]

Try PCM Hammer.

Sorry it took me forever to respond. The forum kept saying I needed to log in everytime I went to reply when I was already logged in.

But PCM hammer won’t launch on my PC. I even uninstalled and tried version 17 with the same issue. It crashes but stays open in a live state. But nothing works on 17 or 18.

I did get it to work on my laptop but it doesn’t have Bluetooth like my PC does. So even tho it works I have no way to send it to my OBD2 device.

[CK_32]

There a million and one post on this forum and dozens of others that tell you flashing on the vehicle is NOT Recommended, even in stand alone systems.
A bench harness with a reliable power supply that puts out at least 1 full watt of power and 12.6 or more volts.
Flashing a PCM in the vehicle with a run of the mill car charger is also not recommended, as the power signal is not clean, and you can possibly brick your

If you have not already, get on Facebook, join the REAL LS Droid page, and first read through all the stickies at the top of the page, then read a couple of weeks back post. You can post your question there and Pete, Jason, or one of the long time users will help you fix your issue.

I’m aware it’s a safety feature. Just frustrating everything I try ends with a dead end for me. And I’m only using my bench harness. I wouldn’t ever flash in vehicle unless I had to for the same reason you state.

I’ll look at the Facebook group if I can remember my password. I’m sure there is more info out there but Google isn’t what it use to be. And sometimes is impossible at finding some info if it’s not on a major search traffic site or look for trending results.

[rickky bobby]

try right clicking and run as administrator on pcm hammer. also pcm hammer 19 is out. here is your bin corrected with checksum fixed.