Isn't there also a starter relay that would also need bypassing?
I believe the module in that car used a fixed resistor. Maybe just buy a kit with the resistors and try them until it starts. It just means trying one and then waiting 20 minutes or so before trying the next resistor. It's 15 resistor values. I think the middle resistances are the most used.
I crawled up under there the other day. Could hear the starter relay clicking. I will get on my tuning laptop and load the xdf. Im owing Steveo beer now. This one actually uses the regular 0bd1 port so I will have to look at the rx/tx and ground layout. I have the db15 Breakout connector and a standard ALDL to DB15 cable connector. I thought it was less thought intensive to just y bridge rx/tx and tin two ends. Should I need the ftdi adapter or will it work without?
you do have to bypass the starter interrupt too, that's true, unless it's already been done, which maybe it has been if it's clicking.
the cable from your 1995 will work fine. you can google pictures of either connector to figure the pins out.
the 'older' connector uses top right as ground, and bottom right as data. the 'newer' cable uses bottom left as data, and the 5th pin in the top row as ground.
I already snapshotted a diagram of both ports for 94 and 95 Camaro. Clicks but no crank, its been 4 days since I looked at it for the first time briefly. The keys supplied measure 7.5k ohms. I will have to look and see where the relay is. It seems like its right behind the console near the stereo but I did not get a handle on the relay that clicks when i turn the key to crank.
I bought the car this morning. $300 plus a little trade on some items. Apparently the battery is junk. I'm going to try flashing it tomorrow if it runs and rives I will just clean it up and drive it. Will build an engine for the are in the meantime, probably the 6.0 local Napa manager has for sale "whole truck minus bed" . If I keep the 4l60e I have a very nice complete performance rebuild kit with boost valve monster sun shell transgo kit and all new parts. If I'm too dumb to get it running I can just ls swap it.
I hooked up to the car and tried to read the calibration and no success yet I'm waiting now. hopefully the vats just has me locked for 10 minutes or so. Successfully connected to ALDL Bus and Reconnecting to ALDL Bus , repeatedly over and over on prompts in flashhack. Makes two clicks when it connects and pops up unable to load kernel. Fans do not kick on and when i go to eehack it reads all kinds of weird numbers and codes off and on without the engine running. still no start.
You might need to disconnect battery. I suggest you flash this pcm on bench. It is very fragile and prone to bricking in car.
eehack is configured to work with v8s[that can explain the weird numbers]. There is a modfied version to work on v6s floating around the site but can`t find the link.
Last edited by kur4o; 10-10-2021 at 10:55 PM.
i don't think VATS will stop you from reflashing that ECM,Originally Posted by LSVolvo940
can you confirm are you using the EE flash tool or the P66 flash tool within flashhack?
when you get it hooked back up if you still have problems please post a log from the debug section and maybe we can see what's wrong.
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