been sitting and thinking on this. I get the bore sizes and all but the 235 vs the 4.3 (262) isnt that much. I think what you are saying is that I can only reduce the injector duty cycle so much at idle but I can increase it as much as I want. right?Originally Posted by 1project2many
my thoughts.
I get this. maybe I'll start out with the 2.8/3.2 injectors (IF I can find them), would rather not just start buying up new injectors at $60/pop from rockauto vs $5/each at u-pull (if I can find them). Along these lines, I can use the larger throttle and just toss in the smaller injectors and then put the injector size in the tune right? I'm initially going to use the 88 1500 4.3 ecu to get it running but from what I've seen with others...I know I'll need to fine tune this thing or I will always have issues. already eyeballing the for sale sub forum for that pre-chipped ecu with chip. then get a burner or maybe that new ostrich clone? which, if I read right, once I get tune right, burn to chip and be done. but at least the ostrich will let me quickly swap out injectors and change scaling, etc (no, I have not downloaded the tuner software yet, just browsing available videos and such at this point to get up to speed).
I'm still trying to figure out how to delete the ESC/knock sensor as well. If the legacy kit from affordable fuel injection can come with the 7747 ecu with this stuff tuned out and/or bypassed through the wiring, then it has to be sorta simple. I tend to "learn by doing" but with a bit of "pre-education" so while I'm gathering parts, I'm doing my pre-education. it just seems most of the ESC/knock sensor stuff is assumed to be pre-learned from the online stuff I am finding. people just assume you know you can bypass the ESC by twisting wires together. um, ok? which ones?
I assume also the knock sensor stuff is like the EGR stuff and I can eliminate it in the chip itself with a tune?
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