I had some time this morning to work on it.
I dug around and found my noid lights. I also found a spare injector pigtail.
Before I started the engine or did anything, I unplugged all the injectors and using the spare pigtail, I added some lengths of wire to it and did a quick quick check on the injectors.
I tapped the wire to the battery really fast to simulate firing. They all clicked with no issue.
I did not remove them and they did not have any pressure, so I can not comment on the spray pattern.

I fired it off and one at a time, I unplugged a injector and plugged in the noid light.
The engine seemed to make a small noticeable difference when I unplugged each injector. Every few seconds I had to reach over and hit the throttle to keep it from dying.
The light appeared to be good/normal on all cylinders. No breaking up, no going out, and no issues I could tell. It looked the same on every one.

I tried again to check/set the base timing, but it will not run on the base timing. It either will start for a second or two then shut off, or just not start at all.
So with it running on timing control, I decided to give the distributor a little turn, maybe 1 degree.
It seemed to improve the idle, and it stayed running on its own. It still did not run great, but at least now it would not die.
I tried again to run it on base timing with no luck. Every time I try to run it on base timing, after I rest the ecu, I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor to go into clear flood mode to get it to start.
Just for the heck of it, I cranked it back up and pointed the timing light at the marks. My timing light has the dial on the back you can set to whatever degrees you want, and it will make the timing mark like up with tdc.
On this engine, it is a royal pain to get to and see the timing marks because of the design of the alternator and ac compressor brackets.
But from what I could see, the timing mark was hovering around zero degrees or just a tad retarded with the timing light set to zero.
I thought this was odd, as it should be around 24 or so degrees.
So just just for the heck of it, I turn the distributor a little more. The timing starts moving advanced.
The engine starts running a little better and idle improves. It now will throttle up and down almost normally. Idle almost sounds normal.
In total, I feel like I turned it almost enough to make me think it was one tooth off.
I marked the dist body and the rotor position, and I swear I got it back in the right spot, but anything is possible.
I tried again to run on base timing so I can check it and still it will not run on it. If I unplug the timing wire, it will not start at all. If I unplug it while running, it dies instantly.
With it running now, idle and reving up seem almost normal, but I am not going to try and drive it until I know the base timing it set right.
It is however, running very rich. At idle, it is running 11.5-12.5 on the wideband. I did not have the laptop hooked up to it to see any data.

The engine and the outside temp was hot, so I called it a day as I had a lot of other stuff I needed to do.

Hopefully next weekend (weather permitting) I am going to pull the #1 plug and make sure I have it at TDC (using a screwdriver) then verify my timing mark on the balancer, then see where the rotor is pointing.
Depending on all that, I may have to pull the dist and adjust it. I can not turn it any more as I a about to hit my power steering pump. (is a large cap HEI)