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  1. #1
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    DOes it have some form of hard reset button, or some button needs to be pressed while pairing.

  2. #2
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    Yeah I did that and the blue led starts flashing fast to indicate it is trying to connect but it never shows up. I'm pretty sure it is FUBAR at this point. These have gotten pretty expensive, I would think there would be something better by now what with all the ones on the market but so far the ones I have looked at all seem to have close to 10% unfavorable ratings, mostly for connectivity issues and I don't really think one in 5 purchasers are clueless about pairing bluetooth. Also I don't believe bluetooth as a comm method is quite that bad.

    Of course, last time I went around and around over this connectivity issue was back when they changed the chip in the preferred physical cable and they all were then bad. I still have one of those around here somewhere if I haven't thrown it out. At that point I bought the LX and it worked so I stopped looking at it.

    BUT, I have no problem at this point with using a cable if I can find one that is affordable and reliable. For that matter all this was a big part of the reason I migrated to HPT. I think I did have one glitch with their hardware but we got it sorted without anyone going nuclear. But as it turns out, they can't help me with the transient tuning so we're back here.

    My buddy Scott tells me there is a BT unit that a couple of the guys developed specifically for tuning, Was maybe an American working with an Australian, does that ring a bell? But honestly I'd be perfectly happy with a cable if it works.

    Jim
    '71 MGB w/ 340 Buick/Eaton/'411 P01

  3. #3
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    If you want the best around, a chines clone MDI unit is quite capable, A little expensive and bulkier but is the most versatile. Have wifi, lan and usb.

    Next option is lsdroid home brew cables, You can look at them here. The gt is what you need, it supposedly supports tech2win and have j2534 support as a bonus.

    https://obdxpro.com/shop/

    Than a cheap old usb version of obdlink devices will do the job too.

  4. #4
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    Thanks. Since both you and Scott endorsed the obdxpro I ordered the GT. Personally I think the expense is a bit much but if it allows me to tune out the transients it will be worth it. I'm hoping the premium product will get a little more attention in terms of quality control, and being able to use it with newer systems could turn out to justify the extra cost also. Watched Lowbuck LS' vid on the vt with pcmhammer and that brought back old memories. I'll upgrade the version, I'm on ver. 14 if that tells you anything. Also taking a look at universalpatcher. I don't know yet what it is useful for but Scott recommended it so I'm looking. Should be here in a few days.

    Jim
    '71 MGB w/ 340 Buick/Eaton/'411 P01

  5. #5
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    WIth universal patcher you can tune, datalog and analyze logged data, and much more.

    You need to poke around a bit to get what it does and where it is located.

    For simple tuning, get a ls1 bin and open it from file->open bin
    Change mode->file->mode->advanced to get more features available.

    in utilities tab there is more tools that will open in new windows.

  6. #6
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    Thanks. I'll look into it. I have a pretty good tune currently, it's evolved a pretty long ways from the basic generic gen-IV file but I need to get those pesky transients under control. Not bad when it's warm but when cold gear changes take a delicate touch.

    Jim
    '71 MGB w/ 340 Buick/Eaton/'411 P01

  7. #7
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    Sorry to take so long getting back to this, my hard drive crashed and I had to basically start over and it's taken me awhile to find this thread. Present status is that I do have the OBDXPRO in hand, I have PCMHammer v21 installed and it does recognize the obdxpro. I have the Universal Patcher (downloaded yesterday) also installed but I remember seeing something about loading a file before using it, I'm looking for that reference.

    I still haven't managed to download the bin file using PCMHammer. There might be a power issue of some sort, if I connect to my simulator with the battery charger on it interferes with my touch pad and makes cursor movement almost impossibly erratic due to latency. But on the battery only it seems to behave more normally. However I haven't gotten it to properly connect to the ECM yet either on the simulator or the car. Bound to be something I'm doing wrong but I haven't run across the detailed sequence of user inputs for doing that download so at this point I am mostly guessing and trying to remember how it's supposed to be done. I suppose at some point I will figure it out again and say, "Well of course.." but I'm not there yet.

    So that's the update, in case anyone was interested.

    Jim
    '71 MGB w/ 340 Buick/Eaton/'411 P01

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