Wanted parts to a bench programmer for 16188051 (32 pin micro pack connetor)

[EagleMark]

I can see a computer power supply being of much better quality then one of those little black converters that are meant to charge a battery! The computer power supply is just that, a power supply, and has got to be clean power for a PC. The other converters are not power supplies, they are battery chargers... aren't they all plugged into a device that has a battery? I just can't recall any of them being attached to something without a battery?

[bobdec]

I was looking at this as a model for my setup, but you guys talked me out of using the 120v converter. http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=713 . Except mine would have a USB input pigtale and the two PCM connectors for OBD1, not what the pic shows.. I have my waverunner batteries stored in the garage, and a few different types of chargers till I figure that part out. . I always wanted a good regulated +12v supply for projects. May be the time to look into it. As far a bricking the PCM -- I have a dedicated old w/95 tuning laptop, wi fi disabled, no AV. Do all my work on my desktop and copy files USB-USB to the laptop. I always load code with charger at 6 amp range on car battery and laptop plugged in. For on the road logging I have a 150 watt inverter I run the laptop off of. My Z28 has a permanent USB ALDL cable plugged in with a USB 6 ft extension wrapped in the glove box. My laptop has spent more time in the passenger seat than my wife... so far my main PCM is still running, just ordered a spare off e-bay for $50.00, see what I get.

[RobertISaar]

i've done pretty much everything "wrong" before with OBD1 and have never had a failed flash...

that being said, i don't do it purposely. i've flashed with a battery charger attached, flashed with a weak battery, had my inverter running to charge my laptop while flashing, used the power locks while flashing... lots of no-nos.

at one point in time, i'm almost certain GM recommended having a charger attached to the car while flashing using the Tech2.... i could be wrong though.

i believe with OBD2, the problem lies in the cables used for flashing.

[EagleMark]

To many variables, to many cables, to many different laptops and chargers, then ad AD ports to cable?

I'll stick to simple. Works flawlessly so far! My HP DV7 laptop has such a huge battery I never have power issues to need a inverter. Although I have left my battery tender, which charges at 1.25a and then switches to some really low something for storage. I bought it new in 1994 to take care of my new Harley battery. It must have a bazillion hours on it by now.

As far as making a bench harness? It's no big deal, just the power scares me. Here's a writeup I did for OBDII but in the back ground you can see my LT1. Warning when building one. You do not need key on power to flash, but you do need the key on switch when changing a VIN number.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...light=benchtop

[bobdec]

Just an update, thanks for the parts. Got bench setup working using an ALDL-USB cable. Still waiting for the Arduino FT232RL so I can eliminate the ALDL cable. Having TunerPro data logging problems w/erratic, dead spots, going to open a thread in TunerPro RT section.

[bobdec]

Latest update, tester completed pic below. USB and +12v input, PCM connectors output. Plus terminals were added to the box to allow USB connection flexibility to other benchtop PCM's or a vehicle ALDL cable in a pinch. Put a 5 amp fuse inside the box, the PCM draws about 300 Ma on the +12v input. I still looking for an inexpensive power source, was using one of my waverunner batteries, but they go back in come April. May pick up a multi voltage output PC power supply and set it up for benchtop work.

Also FYI in post #3 pin B16 is actually sensor ground, it's a clean ground output from PCM to MAP & transmission sensors, not an input. It's not needed for programming so I left it out. Also on the F-Body's serial data is actually wired to pin D30. Since Y,B use pin D29 and both use the same PCM, serial data pins D29 and D30 must be tied together. I wired in D30 to match my Z28, did not try D29 but they do read 0 ohms to each other with a meter.

Project was easy using the 'Uber-easy ALDL Cable' post and the FT232RL works flawlessly.. PC assigns the com port as a serial adapter. Took 3 weeks to get the FT232RL mailed from Singapore, could not find a US source for that low price..

IMG_0664.jpg

[EagleMark]

Since I posted that in #3 I noticed it was not how I had mine wired. Those instructions came from Westers Garage and it's the second time they were wrong, he won't answer why his are differant then the rest of the world so as much as I hate to beleive it I think he is planting wrong information!

Look into D29 and D30 more bofre you go much further. This was also an issue with another of his pin instructions on another PCM. One is stright serial data to PCM and the other is tied to other modules in vehicle. He uses one to all modules even on bench, the rest of the world uses the other? I only have a wiring diagram showing D30, shows tied to other modules. What does D29 do?