hey EAGLEMARK last year your tune did pass on the third try. yes sir it did. but like I said she has been sitting in the garage for a month. unless there is something that can be tuned out with HC or NOX I believe I have something stickin. now I do have a question we haven't hit on.
with the solenoid hit with power and ground and engine at idle----should the egr open up and not quiver as it is doing?
You should definitely have a good idle go bad if EGR opens up.
Lets see a log if anything pops up? Don't forget the idle at end of log.
I know you say 2,000 miles on? But a year and even the best oil can break down in a year. Always change oil before emissions tests, along with... well you fresh on tune up... maybe a new set of plugs! And a AC delco O2 sensor. How old is gas? Keep it full all the time? Highway drive and open it up. Bring it in hot. What does this test involve? Idle? Rollers etc... There was a trick for some of these old ECM, cross A and B on ALDL port and let it idle that way, then pull the jumper before they test or see it.
Was the batt disconnected for the time it sat?
In the end I think Buzz hit it and your CAT is shot, just to old?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
battery stayed connected with a trickle charger. oil was changed three times last year but not this year. been filled up a few times on gas. hoping that that cat isn't bad. it also is only two years old.what does the jump A and B do for these. what does that trick accomplish.
Raises Idle, increases Spark which helps keep motor cleaned out (wet intake remember?) and warm but more importantly keeps the CAT hot so it works.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
there has been real bad weather here today. haven't gotten a chance to get out.
are the egr perimeters settable?? are there even paremters for that? is there any sure fire way to test an egr system besides putting in a vacuum tee and run a gauge in the car while driving. I know that the previous test where it was at idle I powered up the egr solenoid to get vacuum to the egr. all it did was move slightly back and forth. but wont pull all the way back.going to put the plastic lines on instead of all small rubber ones and see if that helps. it is an AC DELCO 17088125 N egr valve. moves freely and will hold vacuum. the cat I have is a 3" race cat. it is clear. thinking about buying the magnaflow 17" stock type cat to put on her with the 2 1/2 inlt and outlet. plan on the tune up as well. wires are all good. cap, rotor, and plugs will be changed. have rapid fire #2 plugs in it. going back to R45TS plugs. going to try and log it as is. but with plugs and stuff all removed I might put in the new and log it.
Twice I have removed an Accell cap and it was not on right! Almost fit... the part that wears out and actually fails without notice is the center post that is spring loaded, the spring breaks and it just hangs there. Well this is for small cap EFI, don't remember if you have the Large Cap HEI?
I have never had issues with stock spark plugs for any engine. Wish I could say the same for the fancy cool name expensive ones? But I've never dealt with the AC Rapid Fire?
It's probably the 3 inch race CAT causing the barely pass and now fail emissions?
I don't see much in definition to adjust EGR, what are you trying to do? There is a good dissambly for $61. I added all the error 32 stuff for $42 so the tests would pass with EGR still on. Not by cheating but to make the test possible after dual exhaust etc... there were many times it would fail because of free flow exhaust.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
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