Another option for $0D efan control

[gregs78cam]

I have been meaning to ask this for a while, I have an electric water pump on my Camaro, and due to the routing of the cooling system it takes forever to heat up because the water pump's flowrate. I would like to get the pump to run at say 25% at start up and stay at that speed, then from 150* to 190* ramp up to 100% as the temp rises.

I had previously thought about using a brushed motor speed control (ESC) like those used in RC cars, to handle the load side of the equation, and using a simple circuit to change the temp sensor output to a compatible PWM signal to control the ESC. But if this PWM control is cabable of controlling the pump through a solid state relay, that would be great. I was thinking of making a table of temp values and the associated PW or duty cycle that the ECM would command.

How hard would this be implement? I have been looking over your code, and parts are starting to make sense, but I still don't think I could handle it myself.

[EagleMark]

I have been meaning to ask this for a while, I have an electric water pump on my Camaro, and due to the routing of the cooling system it takes forever to heat up because the water pump's flowrate. I would like to get the pump to run at say 25% at start up and stay at that speed, then from 150* to 190* ramp up to 100% as the temp rises.

I had previously thought about using a brushed motor speed control (ESC) like those used in RC cars, to handle the load side of the equation, and using a simple circuit to change the temp sensor output to a compatible PWM signal to control the ESC. But if this PWM control is cabable of controlling the pump through a solid state relay, that would be great. I was thinking of making a table of temp values and the associated PW or duty cycle that the ECM would command.

How hard would this be implement? I have been looking over your code, and parts are starting to make sense, but I still don't think I could handle it myself.

I've never done an electric waterpump, but why would it take longer to warm up if thermastat was closed?

[gregs78cam]

I've never done an electric waterpump, but why would it take longer to warm up if thermastat was closed?

Because the coolant flows through engine, out the back of the manifold, through the heater core, through the radiator, and finally back to pump, until the thermostat opens. <50* outside and it takes forever to warm up while driving, due to the airflow through radiator, even without the fan on. I have contemplated moving the return from the heater core to the bottom of the radiator so the water returning spends less time in there but that requires rewelding fittings and making a new heater hose.

[93V8S10]

Everything looks to be in order with the bin. I'll try and test it tomorrow.

[93V8S10]

What about using a "T" in the lower radiator hose? Thats how my S10 is.

[gregs78cam]

What about using a "T" in the lower radiator hose? Thats how my S10 is.

I have though about that too...... but I know that the water coming out of the back of the engine is hotter than that coming through the thermostat and I want that coolant to go though the radiator before it goes back into the engine.

[EagleMark]

Because the coolant flows through engine, out the back of the manifold, through the heater core and finally back to pump

Fixed it for ya!

[gregs78cam]

HAHAHA. yup it runs better already.

[one92rs]

i cant wait till this is completed and working.

[EagleMark]

HAHAHA. yup it runs better already.

I was serious... why is it going from heater core to radiator then pump?

[gregs78cam]

So that the HOT coolant gets cooled off before returning to engine? Important during summer, but something to overcome in spring and fall. I have seen GM OEM setups that are the same way, but I think some have a bypass valve in there somewhere.


http://shopacdelco.amazonwebstore.co...B0016I4ESE.htm

[93V8S10]

That could be done, but not with this code, it only operates in PWM for a second or so. I'm not sure how hard it would be, but I don't think it would be real bad. The soft start section of this code is the first code that I've written from scratch, before that all I had done was minor tweaks. Its hard to say how long it took me to get a handle on the basics of doing coding, but I would guess at about 6 mounts of spare time, just reading and trying different things. How quick for you would depend upon your available time.

[PJG1173]

ok got wires added to the ecu loaded the code for fan A and B. did not do the soft start. Using a volt meter I am monitoring for ground on E3 and e7. I am showing a ground for fan A. no ground on fan b. engine is not up to temp and no thresholds have been reached that should have activated fan A. this is what I have set


Fan A calibration
Overheat temp for fan on 209.8
Temp for fan on 194.9
Temp for fan off 185.5
MPH for fan off 60
TPS for fan on 14.8
minium fan run time 30 sec
use fan a with a/c set
fan b calibration
Overheat temp for fan on 215
Temp for fan on 185.5
Temp for fan off 177.4
MPH for fan off 55
TPS for fan on 99
minium fan run time 20 sec
use fan a with a/c not set


If i leave Overheat temp for fan on for fan B at -40 it will show ground on that pin. I'm going to keep messing with the settings to see if I can get fan A to work.

[93V8S10]

A easy way to see whats going on, is to wire up a small light to each pin.

Be sure to look over all of the set-up stuff too, may be a mistake there.
Are you using $0D or $E6?

[PJG1173]

Im running 0d. to test I have my volt meter connected to b+ and the ground connected to the ecu output. it appears that fan be is working properly. I double checked the install tables and the enable fields. no matter what I do I keep getting ground for fan A. attached is my bin i'm working from.