My $59 problems/tuning a turbo camaro

[JeepsAndGuns]

I always heard to not only lube the threads, but to lube the underside of the bolt heads, the part actually contacting the head. I read that lubeing that part is just as important as the lube on the threads.

[fasteddi]

Well im picking up some felpro head bolts this morning(there like 30 bucks) and there TTY ones, Im told to only lube under the head and NOT the threads?? Id get the studs but ill be honest, money is a factor and I plan to actaully pull the engine next winter and rebuild it hopefully(my goals are forged pistons and such, if i can save up enough $$ by then)....so those bolts and such better last till then. Leaving work in about 3 hours to pick up the oil and everything else, so that i can clean out that crappy residue from the milky oil, and tear her down and check the situation out..

[Six_Shooter]

I use thread sealer ("pipe dope") on the threads of the head bolts in a 660.

I've also re-used head bolts without issue, on my boosted builds. I'm not saying that it's ideal, I'm just saying that I've had success doing so.

There was a test that Horsepower TV did, about using different torquing lubricants, it was quite interesting. You should be able to find that clip on You Tube, if not it's definitely in the show it was originally aired on, that can be found on www.powerblocktv.com.

[fasteddi]

Ok thanks six! And thanks everyone else for the tips on getting the crap out of the engine.

I think my issue was I reused the bolts and never chased the thread(I didnt know any better) Along with a crap head gasket, so 11psi of boost will showed me my faults in 2 weeks! Just cause my torq wrench said 40# didnt mean it was really 40# with crappy looking threads, and I didnt know to put oil on the head of the bolt either, so those heads im guessing werent on nearly tight enough.

But anyways I got the heads both off, inspected things and it looks in good working order. The head gasket metal bands were fine, that that makes me think even more that the gasket was lifting off and not torqed down enough at all!! I know what I saw yesterday and it was steam coming right out of the gasket on that head!!

I got some new felpro head bolts, blue felpro gasket, and a crap ton of oil and 2 more filters. I flushed the car this afternoon and got alot more of the milky mess out. After I got the heads off, i left the oil plug off and poured alot of oil down there, I wiped down the cylinders, lifters, blew out push rods and oiled them down, I turned the crank over 2 times to TDC after I shot assembly oil all over on the cam lifters, the dizzy hole(back of cam) and tried getting it on the crank as much as I could.

Heres a pic. Got this all tore down, cleaned the heads, intakes, and block for new gaskets in about 4 hours or so. The heads dont appear to be warped, but will check that again tommorow, the waterjackets in the heads are fine, although I plan to get the heads pressure tested by a friend just because. So mabey in a week or so Ill have her back together as its suppose to be like 60* this week?? In ohio?? Thats tuning weather!!

[EagleMark]

That's a lot of work for a day!

Where's the other 2 pistons?

Do big blocks fit it them? Na then you'd need 2 turbos!

I should stop giving you ideas...

[Six_Shooter]

You likely won't find a thread chaser or tap without special ordering it.

What I did was take an old head bolt, cleaned it up with a wire wheel and then using a die grinder and a cut off wheel, cut 3 slits length-ways, to help grab the old gunk in the threads in the block, worked well for me.

The head bolts are an odd size at 11mm.

[fasteddi]

You likely won't find a thread chaser or tap without special ordering it.

What I did was take an old head bolt, cleaned it up with a wire wheel and then using a die grinder and a cut off wheel, cut 3 slits length-ways, to help grab the old gunk in the threads in the block, worked well for me.

The head bolts are an odd size at 11mm.

Ahh that makes sence..they look like crap(the bolts i took out) But I did pick up some new felpro ones so thatll do.

@eaglemark......dont be giving me ideas!!!2 turbos...........................

[EagleMark]

You likely won't find a thread chaser or tap without special ordering it.

What I did was take an old head bolt, cleaned it up with a wire wheel and then using a die grinder and a cut off wheel, cut 3 slits length-ways, to help grab the old gunk in the threads in the block, worked well for me.

The head bolts are an odd size at 11mm.

That should do the trick. Are they flat bottom or open to water jacket? Some break clean and air aftewrds would clean them up nice.

[fasteddi]

That should do the trick. Are they flat bottom or open to water jacket? Some break clean and air aftewrds would clean them up nice.

I used some break cleaner, then oiled them back up. Blowing out the crap in push rods was fun......but there lubed up and good to go. What a mess earlier with that oil...

Heres a quick pic when i started to clean them up... intake side..




Bottom

[fasteddi]

I got the car running!! My day off and its 60* outside in ohio... What a winter.

I got the oil to look nice, no coolent in it, but Im going to change it once more time just to be safe.

No leaks, no rad fluid shooting into the overflow, not over heating, and also i compression checked it as 145-155PSI on all cylinders(which is a good number).

The only problem i have is it has bad throttle responce! I think the plugs are shot from the antifreeze getting to them before. Its not misfiring or anything just delayed responce. Idles great, i even took it down the road and gave it a little shot of boost, it pulled good, AFR's were good. It was just bad responce. So ill attend to the plugs(i hope thats the problem) And get to tuning on friday. 65* and sunny!! Perfect afternoon to get a tune for warmer weather!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[fasteddi]

Can anyone tell me what modes change in the $58/59 from...say 80% tps to 100% tps???? Im having issues at WOT and it just seems like its the code, not the car.Im trying to understand what transitions happen at different levels TPS and what is different from 80% to 100% tps... Thanks!

[EagleMark]

I don't know either but usually that TPS range would indicate PE Power Enrichment. During PE most go open loop and add fuel and spark. Hope that points in in right direction.

[fasteddi]

I don't know either but usually that TPS range would indicate PE Power Enrichment. During PE most go open loop and add fuel and spark. Hope that points in in right direction.

Ok thanks man, ive been running forced open loop the whole time so far. PE mode i will look at though! Thank mark

Im hoping sixshooter can help me agian even though im always bugging him. My concerns are the PE F80 cont. advance table and the Quasi Fuel stuff. Does that affect WOT compared to say 80% throttle... The car is just slower at WOT even though the spark knock is ok, the afrs are ok, and the timing is high enough to make great power.

I just feel like im missing something setting up this code. And cant seem to fine what it is.... its like when i had problems with the idle and then was told about the spark reference angle.... I just feel im missing somethin...sorry for the innoying post

[EagleMark]

Your not annoying your learning and others are learning as well. Six will jump in and help, that's why he got involved here, he just does not have as much free time. He's got a lot of experiance with boost!

[fasteddi]

Ok, well i looked into some more things and they are intresting to me such as my async pause is higher under WOT by alot compared to the same boost level KPA at say 80% Tps. Also I noticed a table under fueling that is called the fuel cut off (6 cyl)...that table is set up to 5256 cut off and 5198 cut in RPMS. Im woundering if this table is active??? This would definitly be the cause of my pop i hear at those RPMs when im about to shift at WOT.......

Theres just so many tables and scalers that its confusing, but ill keep looking and reading up on the matter. Cant tune..have to work 12 hrs tonight and theres 3inches of snow on the ground.