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Thread: DIY LTCC or similar system for LT1s

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  1. #11
    Fuel Injected! spfautsch's Avatar
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    Apr 2015
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    Good to know your parts made it through customs. I shipped another one to Canada on Thursday and it should be arriving soon with any luck.

    If you're serious about making a general purpose controller out of one you might want to take a look at where I'm at with 0.9.14 and try to gain an understanding of what tools are available to work with to add time based logic. I'll try to upload 0.9.15 to github tonight - it will be labeled as wip (work in progress) but it's effectively the same as .14. I think time based would actually be better in in many aspects. I have the feeling the 24x reluctor wheel setup on-crank was the next logical progression of the opti with it's 360 degree high res side ripe for causing routine starvation due to the large number of interrupts generated.

    I think the adc section can easily accommodate a coolant temperature sensor if you wanted to create entire timing tables. There should be plenty of flash available also - currently it needs 5.7k of 32k available. There's probably enough cpu bandwidth to handle a knock sensor input as well.

    I was just getting the bellhousing separated from the transmission yesterday when it occurred to me exactly how and why the hesitation was happening at the transitions where dwell needs to begin right around the TDC low-res signal. It should be super easy to fix by using a fifo type queue for dwell requirements.

    Super off-topic, but then again my mechanical issues have hindered this project immensely so I'm happy to report that I'm 99.999% confident I found the source of my noise. I'm still in disbelief, but when I pulled the #7 connecting rod loose I saw out of the corner of my eye and then heard something hit the bottom of the catch pan. Digging around the oil and coolant stew I found this piece of what appears to be weld spatter.



    Apparently it's been floating around in the oil feed in the crank for a while, and would get hung up in the bearing babbit and cause the rod to tap the crank. This was a strange one because the noise did seem to be louder at the bottom of the engine, but it was a very high pitched noise that sounded more like a valve clapping shut than a rod end. It also didn't go away completely when I disabled any cylinders, although #8 made the biggest difference.

    When I first saw this I thought it was a piece of spatter from my welding the adjustable guideplates together, but it's too big to get through the oil pump pickup screen. Outside of that route, I have no idea how it could have gotten into the oil feed system, much less make it's way into the 4th main journal feed - it would have had to make a left turn around the camshaft to boot (and that cam journal shows no signs of distress). So I'm guessing this had to be stuck inside the crank since the shop welded material back in my counterweights when I had it balanced in 2016.

    The toughest part of this is that I expected to find a broken hard part that required replacement. This would have given me a thoroughly plausible excuse to buy a stroker kit. It looks like the crank has sustained very little damage so I could probably get it back together with a set of gaskets and bearings. Decisions, decisions...

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