lt1 tuning help?

[jrgcjnl]

hello guys, i am a newbie to tuning, and i want to learn more about tuning, lt1s in particular
i have already started out by increasing the firmness of the shifts, adding 2 degrees to all across main spark advance and extended spark adv, as well as closed tps advance
i was wondering how i can make more power out of my car?
i also wired up the "transmission perform" button and programmed it to use it as an automated downshifter, for roll races, so that i wouldnt have to drop it to first or etc.
my only mods are intake and cut out, and i use 93 octane fuel
another thing i was wondering, does a higher MAT reading equal less spark advance tolerance?
once again, sorry but i am just trying to get a little bit more juice out of my 96z28 :p
any help is appreciated, thanks guys

[mynumber1hater]

Im here doing the same thing bro, the guys are super cool here. Check out my thread and see if it helps you at all. I have some data logs and my tune posted. GL

[jrgcjnl]

it sure seems like it, thanks a lot man, its hard out here, especially with no tuners for us lt's anywhere close to where i live
ill be sure to check it out, thanks once again

[mynumber1hater]

Same here, dayton tx. I am on a bunch of forums and this is the only place where guys are willing to help..

[EagleMark]

Glad you guys are having fun here. We are just a bunch of obssed EFI guys having fun, teaching others and all learning and working as a team.

With the performance button added you really don't need to firm up shift times, if you look through the mask for your bin you'll see the performace shift times are all 0. Other shift tables have some smooth times in them. I didn't do the button I just zeroed out my tables and have good firm shifts all the time. Tranny temps went down too!

When I forst started playing with my LT1 I found spark tables to be all they could on regular gas and could only get away with a couple more degrees with 93 octane. They are some pretty aggresive tables and others use them for their small block builds. So be careful there and watch your Knock Retard, it's nice that it will only pull .1 degree sometimes but also pull up to 15.0 degrees, so watch knock retard more then knock counts.

Best trick I can give you for a LT1 is need to download and read instructions on WOT BLM locker in EE thread:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...rmation-EE-EEB

Run your bin through the program and add 20% fuel to the WOT AFR table. That's where I ended up on a stock LT1 to get 12.8 AFR at WOT consistenly. If your don't have the BLM locker it only adds fuel to whatever the BLM is so you never have a consistent WOT AFR.

You can do things like turn up enable temp so air pump does not come on. Turn off traction control and when ypou do a burnout it will not poop out in middle.

[jrgcjnl]

thanks for all the help
actually in the performance mode tables the shift times were 6+ seconds, although i know that isnt true but thats whats on the table, and the only reason i wired up the performance button, is because in case i race a manual car or some guy tries to be sneaky and drop his car in manual mode, all i have to do is press it and it will automatically drop to either first or second (all i did was make the shifts happen at the max speed for each shift, such as make all 1-2 at 36mph, etc.)
now about the blm locker, i just simply run my bin through there and add 20% fuel all across the rpm range? and if so, under what table would i do that?
again, thanks for the help guys

[muddyjimmy]

Glad you guys are having fun here. We are just a bunch of obssed EFI guys having fun, teaching others and all learning and working as a team.

With the performance button added you really don't need to firm up shift times, if you look through the mask for your bin you'll see the performace shift times are all 0. Other shift tables have some smooth times in them. I didn't do the button I just zeroed out my tables and have good firm shifts all the time. Tranny temps went down too!

When I forst started playing with my LT1 I found spark tables to be all they could on regular gas and could only get away with a couple more degrees with 93 octane. They are some pretty aggresive tables and others use them for their small block builds. So be careful there and watch your Knock Retard, it's nice that it will only pull .1 degree sometimes but also pull up to 15.0 degrees, so watch knock retard more then knock counts.

Best trick I can give you for a LT1 is need to download and read instructions on WOT BLM locker in EE thread:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...rmation-EE-EEB

Run your bin through the program and add 20% fuel to the WOT AFR table. That's where I ended up on a stock LT1 to get 12.8 AFR at WOT consistenly. If your don't have the BLM locker it only adds fuel to whatever the BLM is so you never have a consistent WOT AFR.
You can do things like turn up enable temp so air pump does not come on. Turn off traction control and when ypou do a burnout it will not poop out in middle.

I am going to try this on my tune but I did notice in my PE% Change To Fuel/Air Ratio @ WOT table the numbers go negative at 4000 RPM. Is this normal? If I multiply by 1.2 to get the 20% wont that take fuel away in the upper RPM range? That doesn't sound right but I am still new to this.