lt1 tuning help?

[RobertISaar]

now that at least myself has gotten that figured out....

[Fuzzy from MN1988]

EGR Electrical Failure, Error 27 EGR Diagnostic, Error 32 <-- I will check over the vacuum lines and the EGR valve/solenoid tomorrow, should I replace them since I'm almost positive they're original.

VATS Enabled. On a stock 94 SS it's 'set' where my tune it is not. What would be the benefit of disabling the anti-theft?

Air Pump Diagnostic, Error 29 I'm guessing the air pump isn't set in the pcm anymore or something is wrong with the pump?.. None of the A.I.R. pump has been changed by me.

I went to my car to program it again and still nothing.. start and die right away. Once I put the bin file that was originally in the car it runs fine.

[EagleMark]

EGR Electrical Failure, Error 27 EGR Diagnostic, Error 32 <-- I will check over the vacuum lines and the EGR valve/solenoid tomorrow, should I replace them since I'm almost positive they're original.

Yes replace them if they are that old but still might not fix the issue. Can look at that later... is there a EGR tube from your headers to intake? Was it turned off in last tune?

VATS Enabled. On a stock 94 SS it's 'set' where my tune it is not. What would be the benefit of disabling the anti-theft?

Turning off VATS is common with aftermarket tunes. If you loose your pellet key or the cylinder in steering column goes bad the engine will still run, if it's a conversion engine to another vehicle without VATS module and steering column it will still run. If it is an SS and this went bad it should not crank over either though? But you could turn key on and jump the starter solenoid and start car. In the 9C1 Police option there were no starter disable from Vats, just fuel disable from VATS. Aren't you the one with early $EEB? If so you have such an early SS with an $EEB I wonder if something was changed and it was closer to a 9C1? Do you have the stock factory bin file or just the mail order tune?

Uncheck the VATS and give it a shot! Your car is doing exactly what a VATS issue would cause.

Air Pump Diagnostic, Error 29 I'm guessing the air pump isn't set in the pcm anymore or something is wrong with the pump?.. None of the A.I.R. pump has been changed by me.

But have you owned the car since new? Disabling Air Pump is common practice as in 95 it was found to have an issue of collecting moisture and letting it into exhaust, since it was not needed to pass emissions there was a factory TSB to plug line at air filter inlet, remove relay and reflash PCM to disable. Nothing is removed.

You should do this anyway, there are 2 checkmarks to disable, one turns it off and one turns off the Check Engine Light.

[Fuzzy from MN1988]

I have the stock bin file available(found on this site), I tried that file with no success. How can I tell if it's an early $EEB or newer($EE)? I should be able to just flash a new tune with no problems right?

The only flags that were set on my mail-order tune are the ones that I listed. Error 27, 29, 32 and the V.A.T.S. I planned on replacing the EGR valve/solenoid anyways, I did replace my vacuum lines so I will check over them again. I wouldn't think that would make the car die right away though. I will try disabling the VATS and A.I.R. pump. Where is the checkmark to turn off the CEL when you turn off the air pump?

I don't think the EGR was turned off, only issues I see are the 2 flags. How do you actually turn it off? Don't you need to block off the ports if you disable it? The 3 EGR enable scalars are all set to stock.

[EagleMark]

You sent me your bin file once before didn't you? It was early $EEB. I have flashed 2 $EEB with newer $EE now with no issues...

Turn the VATS off and see if it will run.

Or post bin that runs and one that does not and I'll take a look at them.

[Fuzzy from MN1988]

I got the tune that I made to work, had to switch the VATS off. I tried the SS file without turning VATS off and it wouldn't work. The anti-theft was the answer. I'm going to try and switch it off with the stock one and see how that works. I couldn't get TP to work right when I took it for a drive to see how it handled and to log the info. My ALDL cable kept wanting me to switch between the Comm port 3 & 4, I had to mess with that more than once just to get WinFlash to work. In TP when I tried to connect I would get Data Connected(blue) and Data Error(red) flashing on the bottom of the screen. I never got an error message why it was happening with WinFlash or TP. I tried Start/Stop Data Scan and hitting the button that has the blue arrows pointing opposite directions, neither worked. The cable is brand new so I can't see that being the problem.

I did like some of the Normal Mode shift points switched to the Performance Mode shift points but I definitely want to learn how to change them around to make it better suited for me. Is there any additional equipment needed to watch the tranny? I know in TP it has it's own separate Monitor and Dashboard but they never change. One thing that I didn't like about the custom tune is that the car got a lot warmer than my mail order tune. I noticed on a tach that I have in my car that once it was warmed up it idled in Drive at a stop light at about 4-500 RPMs where my mail order tune would idle at about 5-600 RPMs.

[muddyjimmy]

Glad you guys are having fun here. We are just a bunch of obssed EFI guys having fun, teaching others and all learning and working as a team.

With the performance button added you really don't need to firm up shift times, if you look through the mask for your bin you'll see the performace shift times are all 0. Other shift tables have some smooth times in them. I didn't do the button I just zeroed out my tables and have good firm shifts all the time. Tranny temps went down too!

When I forst started playing with my LT1 I found spark tables to be all they could on regular gas and could only get away with a couple more degrees with 93 octane. They are some pretty aggresive tables and others use them for their small block builds. So be careful there and watch your Knock Retard, it's nice that it will only pull .1 degree sometimes but also pull up to 15.0 degrees, so watch knock retard more then knock counts.

Best trick I can give you for a LT1 is need to download and read instructions on WOT BLM locker in EE thread:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...rmation-EE-EEB

Run your bin through the program and add 20% fuel to the WOT AFR table. That's where I ended up on a stock LT1 to get 12.8 AFR at WOT consistenly. If your don't have the BLM locker it only adds fuel to whatever the BLM is so you never have a consistent WOT AFR.
You can do things like turn up enable temp so air pump does not come on. Turn off traction control and when ypou do a burnout it will not poop out in middle.

I am going to try this on my tune but I did notice in my PE% Change To Fuel/Air Ratio @ WOT table the numbers go negative at 4000 RPM. Is this normal? If I multiply by 1.2 to get the 20% wont that take fuel away in the upper RPM range? That doesn't sound right but I am still new to this.

[EagleMark]

Since this it LT1 thread I'll use the LT1 $EE for example. Take in mind every calibration is differant, some same cars are differant. You can look at the same identical calibration/bin file in 2 tuner programs and positive numbers in one and negitive numbers in another!

This is my favorite $EE bin file to start with. 1994 Caddilac LT1 4l60E RPO code V4P was the only true towing option that had changes from stock bin! Way nice transmission tuning already done! * DO NOT USE 1994 bins in 1995 cars and most trucks...*



Yes if you Multiply by 1.20 in TunerPro it will take away from negitive numbers. Adding 20% to table is the goal.

You can see where the numbers start to drop as muddyjimmy was mentioning. See where it starts to loose PE fuel at 5200 RPM? Well it's starting to take out fuel in 4800 as cells get the calulation from interpolating from cell to cell, like a smooth. Well that's all this engine was desinged to need and all GM was about to give. Probably one of the best. All the LT1s are when comparing to others.

It's also your built in fuel cuttoff, even if your cuttoff is set higher.

The 20% I added worked great. Was a stock LT1 and even with Wide Band it was so close to on 12.8 to 1 the entire RPM range, it was the easist find of PE power ever. I don't think this was by acccident as the LT1 did have a lot of money into the prograam at that time! But if you have any mods the only way to dial this in is with WideBand tuning.

I did raise mine to 5200 with a little fuel taken out at 5600 up. It really helped 1-2 shift, it was bumping into the fuel cutt off when it shifted at 5100 RPM, I did find this with the Wide Band o2 sensor. Turned from a shift to a lanuch. Probably one of the earliest tourqe control for transmissions too.

[RobertISaar]

* DO NOT USE 1994 bins in 1995 cars and most trucks...*

i'm fairly certain i know the answer why, but you may want to elaborate on this Mark.

[EagleMark]

4L60E transmissions are differant from 94 to 95. 95 is a PWM TCC. Extra wire to PCM and 12 pin electrical connector on trans, 11 on 94.

Is there more?

[RobertISaar]

not that i know of, that was the only difference i have been aware of for a little while now.

it certainly explains a few odd things in the differences between the automatic 94 and 95 3.4 F-body calibrations that i otherwise couldn't figure out.

[EagleMark]

Trucks of that era have to be watched very carefully as well.

[muddyjimmy]

Thanks for the information on that. I am going to lock the BLM and add the 20% and tune from there with my wideband. My car is just a bolt-on LT1 so I would think that the fueling should be close to the same as a stock one. The clarification/explanation on the negative numbers helps.

[EagleMark]

The BLM locker is a sweet little program, it makes this work well as there is always a given fueling starting point. 128 INT BLM, straght from the fueling VE table. You can then use the O2 sensor voltage to add and subtract fuel. Not as accurate as Wide Band, Internet rumor everyone says it won't work but after doing this a few times data is consistent enough to do a good tune.

[muddyjimmy]

So I did the BLM locker and added 20% fuel to my WOT table and I made a couple runs on my way home tonight. They were all rolling WOT runs and the AFR stayed 12.7-12.8 all the way. I started with the a mail-order tune but never had the wideband to watch. I don't know where it was but it does seem to be right now. Now the test is to see if I have picked up anything at the track.