Hi Mwtvvo, could you please publish your bins here.I have the amc304 engine in my car and would like to test these bins on it.
Hi Mwtvvo, could you please publish your bins here.I have the amc304 engine in my car and would like to test these bins on it.
he doesn't have any bin files he has been swapping ecu's obtained from the wrecker.... why don't you look at all the bin files on this website
When I did the swap, I didn't start out with a working motor, so I refreshed as much as I could. I put on a new water pump and thermostat. I recently swapped over to an 11 blade. The radiator is original to the truck, so it could be an issue. I replaced the whole distributer when I did the swap.
Before running the recent log, I checked the timing (est disconnected) because I thought it might be the reason for the lack of power and overheating. It was at 12 (not sure how), and I adjusted it down to 0-2. The truck runs better, but lacks power. The radiator could be a weak point, but it shouldn't cause power loss.
Any other ideas? Are logs not a good diagnostic tool? Thanks for the responses.
@tayto, in general you are right but I couldn`t find the ADTD nor the AMUS!
Is the 11 blade a plastic blade? I put one on a friend's 1992 gmc c2500 a year ago along with a new clutch. I am going to run one on my squarebody this summer. Is your clutch new or original? I would get your cooling problem sorted out first. pull the rad and get it checked out. have you done a compression or leakdown test to see if the engine is healthy? don't have enough evidence at this time but failed headgasket can cause overheating and lack of power.
The 11 blade I installed is plastic: although, I think they also are made with steel.
The original radiator failed on me. The wire to the temp sensor (near the exhaust manifold) fell off, so I the temp gauge in the dash wasn't working. Luckily I stopped for gas and smelled radiator fluid, otherwise I the truck would have overheated going 75 mph. I now have a new radiator.
That was not the source of my lack of power though. I'm going to do a compression test and fuel pressure test today maybe that will give me more insight. (I'm new to Data Logging) I believe the fuel pressure is too high. My BLMs are very low across the range. The truck has a fuel pump in from a 95 TBI, but I think it's too much pressure still. I adjusted the regulator until it bottomed out and still had low BLMs. Also, my injector Duty Cycle is over 100, even over 1000. Do I need a custom chip to read this setting correctly ("the hack") or is this also showing my fuel pressure is too high? What is a good range for this?
don't you have the wrong calibration currently? setting your fuel pressure to bring the BLMs in is a bandaid fix at best and fools errand IMO. Vortec or TPI pump is an excellent upgrade even on a bone stock setup. 13 psi, again is fine on stock stuff and where i target on stock or lightly modified.
is your engine a 350 or 305? is a stock TBI motor or originally a carb'd engine? previously you stated you had 350 injectors. are these GM used or aftermarket?
Last edited by tayto; 08-21-2022 at 08:17 PM.
Thanks for your response. I'm really not sure what the problem is. I'm guessing at best. My blms are really low and the only thing I have to go off is my fuel pressure. I've put 305 injectors in and they made my blms too high and cannot adjust down to 128. The 350 injectors won't adjust up to 128.
It's an original tbi 350 I bought from a junk yard said to have 180 compression on all cylinders. The injectors are also used from junk yard, all sets.
I just finished a the compression test and the numbers are 145-150 psi. Kinda low, but consistent, and I'm not getting any smoke.
I've been really just trying to get this thing to run in stock form. I have several logs, but I'm not sure what I'm looking at yet. The only thing that sticks out is the low blms and the injector duty cycle
I'm open to options.
Last edited by Mwtvvo; 08-21-2022 at 09:05 PM.
I happen to have an AMUS .bin file (for a '7747) but, IT IS NOT STOCK, It has a fairly aggressive timing table and, IIRC, fuel table (last modified 12/29/2018 so, I don't remember much about it). It also has the BPW and Spark Advance Hack patch. If you're interested let me know, YMMV.Originally Posted by mecanicus
That's interesting. I don't have a way to burn chips yet, but I will in the future if you want to shoot it my way.
Do you remember any of the mods done before creating that file?
Last edited by Mwtvvo; 08-22-2022 at 07:51 PM.
This .bin is from when I 1st started tuning my 88 5.7L (with the help from Dave w) with a 46mm bored Throttle Body, 20LB spring, Edelbrock 3704 intake, Summit Racing aluminum heads, Lunati flat tappet 208/213 cam with fUll roller 1.6 rockers giving me .466/.484 lift and 112° LSA, shorty headers with JBA "Y" to 3" high flow cat and Borla Pro XS straight through muffler. After a few logs and tunes we decided I should go to with the much faster EBL Flash-II and a WBO2. Personally, if you can afford it, I'd go with the EBL
Like I said, IT IS NOT STOCK! USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Thanks for the .bin and the info. I will look into the EBL Flash. I'm just happy to have the truck running good for the first time since I've owned it lol.
Thanks for the info Tayto. I'm curious why you would recommend setting the fuel pressure by pressure and not by logging and knocks?
leave your fuel pressure at 13psi and get your 350 injectors cleaned. i thought you were still rinning a 305 calibration, it seems you have one more matched now, I assume you have a 700R4 and the lockup works. glad you figured out the timing. once you get fuel squared away you can probably set minimum idle if havent already.
i HIGHLY doubt your knock counts are from a rich mixture. they are either from timing, a lean condition or false knock (exhaust hitting frame, bad knock module/sensor, etc). GM's spec for fuel pressure is 9-12 psi. I have seen/felt gains on totally stock setups by putting the pressure at 13psi as that's the number these injectors were flowed at from factory. they also say thay the higher the pressure for TBI injectors the better they atomize the fuel.
The computer gives direct feedback on it's running condition even if it's slow. Is there no way to tune the fuel pressure by watching the computer's feedback?
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