Tunerpro RT $4F connection problems

[duecepipes22]

I'll get started with a manual bin right away.

I've had the EGR shut off on all of the bins, including the "Option Word 1 - Bit 7 - EGR" in the last couple so I don't know why it continues to cause problems.

I think something else is wrong because I made a few adjustments to my upper RPM range after doing that last log and I just logged again and everything was rich again! When I started the log it looked good but rapidly turned rich. Like you had mentioned, I'll check my injectors, but it seemed to be running fine so I don't know what to think! I also had some knock in the last log that I posted, which I hadn't been having. I'm starting to see some of the frustrations that accompany this!

[duecepipes22]

I think my problem may be that a sprung another vacuum leak! I just retorqued my throttle body and EGR block off bolts and they both seemed to be pretty loose. Unfortunately I think the idle was still changing with the lighter fluid spray... here we go again, but I'm assuming I found out why my BLMs were off again. Would that make sense?

[EagleMark]

Yup! I knew something was wrong...

I thought I was daring with short bursts of starting fluid? Your actually useing liquid? I dono bout that... be safe please! Really the safest way I know is a propane tourch, sometimes it needs to be on high and close up with wind from fans. Safety glasses, gloves and long arm, really reach in to it and keep your face away!!! Please be safe...

[duecepipes22]

I've been using spray can starter fluid. I figured, besides blowing up my face, truck, garage and half the neighborhood, whats the worst that could happen?.... I'll reconsider doing it that way. I'm thinking about just calling around to see if any local shops do smoke testing and what they charge for it.

I grabbed the "AWSY 92 C-K-P Truck 5.7TBI 5 speed" bin you have on the $4f thread and inserted my fuel and spark tables as well as what I have been doing to delete my EGR. Would there be anything else to change or do you think it looks good? I couldn't see any other differences, but then again, I wouldn't know what to look for.

[EagleMark]

Very short little bursts of starter fluid with your hand fully extended, that way if it finds ignition it's a very short little explosion!

It's still doing the same thing? Warmed up, start log, little lean 134ish, then get's almost perfect then ends up pig rich? I've never seen that before? Maybe spark going away?

[duecepipes22]

I haven't relogged with this bin since fixing the vacuum leak (if it is fixed, fingers crossed). I feel pretty confident that it will be better once its fixed, but then again, I'm just a newbie. Like I've said, I wouldn't be surprised if the spark was failing considering all the miles, but I would think that it would run a little rough if that was the case. It still accelerates/drives perfectly smooth.

[duecepipes22]

I just got done doing a data log after attempting to fix the vacuum leak. It seems to be doing better and according to the BLMs it looks like its running less rich again. However, while I was cruising at about 2000 RPMs my EGR tried to kick on again and instantly the BLMs went from 128 to 109. I cant figure out how to get that thing to stay off!! I've got the EGR enable temp all the way up, the EGR on and off TPS% are both at 0 and the Option Word Bit 7 is off.

I guess at this point I'm also confused as to why my BLMs were back to perfect at 2000 RPM and above (prior to EGR trying to kick in) yet below 2000 it didn't lean out as much after fixing the vacuum leak.

[EagleMark]

I've had the EGR shut off on all of the bins, including the "Option Word 1 - Bit 7 - EGR" in the last couple so I don't know why it continues to cause problems.

Wasn't turned off at all in the last bin I looked at?

[duecepipes22]

I just took it out for a run with the EGR on TPS% at 100% and the EGR never tried turning on so thanks!

Mark, which bin did you look at? All of my most recent bins I've had the EGR on temp maxed out. Are you referring to the Bit 5 code 32 flag? I've left that on so I know if its still trying to turn the EGR on, should I have that off too?

One other thing, I regapped my plugs today (most of them were close to .050 and I should be at .035) back to .035 and did a data log (I lost all my data because my computer died at the end of the run) and it seemed to idle a little better but my numbers were even more rich. Does that mean that now I'm not burning all the fuel that we just started adding to it because of the smaller gap? With my old stock ignition, I know I don't want to be running that wide of a gap but it seems like the BLMs preferred the wider gap.

[EagleMark]

I've got TPS Tune4.bin in my TunerPro history so I think that was last I looked at. Glad the EGR issue went away.

IIRC bigger then .035 spark plug gaps was a phase manufactures went through? Not really sure if newer cars still do this, I know it went up then back on vehicles I had and work with. I can't remember last time I gapped more then .035, less with boost.

Also everyone here knows my word is not an end all, I can be proven wrong and welcome the opportunity to more knowledge...

[RobertISaar]

i run .060 with 9.6:1 static compression.... the GM DIS can make some serious voltage, so it can run those gaps easily.

[EagleMark]

Back in 1995 is when I remember this phase, then gaps went back? Don't know the whys?

DIS is good stuff but lots of ignitions can jump half inch, does it really help ignite a highely flammable mixture under pressure?

[duecepipes22]

Good points... I know mine is supposed to be at .035 but a couple months ago I decided to open it up to .045 and see what happened. I wasn't sure if I was a victim of the placebo effect, but I actually thought it ran worse so I reduced it to .040. Now either the cheapo autozone tool was way off or they actually had opened up to .050. I trust that its strong enough to arc that gap, but with 262,000 miles on all my ignition stuff, I don't want to push it.

Does that make any sense though that it would suddenly run more rich now after decreasing the gaps? I'm finally going to grab an ohm/voltage meter today and start testing my ignition stuff.

[duecepipes22]

i run .060 with 9.6:1 static compression.... the GM DIS can make some serious voltage, so it can run those gaps easily.

Do you run that with the completely stock ignition? How many miles are on it? I would like to keep them a little wider, but I don't trust my stuff right now because of the weird logs I'm getting.

[EagleMark]

Your biggest issue with that many miles on a Small Cap distributor is the reluctor is probably cracked. If you take off the cap and rotor and the reluctor is clean look at it for cracks on black part between metal posts. There is also an issue of distributor gear wear, shaft wear, green corrosion on pickup coil and wires.

The best thing you could do for all the work you have into that motor is a new GM distributor.

Take off the coil wire on coil and see if it is also corroded.

Your way beyond service life of those parts...