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  1. #1
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    Also have insomnia so I have now completed reading the internet in it's entirty!
    So... have you found Al Gore's first post? From the day he invented the internet? I think it says "Is it just me, or does it seem warm in here?"

    IHeater blower motor doesnt work, there is a module that controlls it, and its anywhere from $100-150.
    The blower motor modules usally go out because the blower motors get age and wear on them and start pulling too many amps. And the new blower motors are around $60-70
    If it only works on high then it's a very easy fix. We have a bazillion Chrysler products in the fleet and I have done this many times. They call it a "module" but it's really just a cheap resistor block in ceramic substrate. There's a small bullet shaped piece that's a chemical fuse. They can be replaced but I just install a 25A fuse there and put it back together. In 4-5 years with 8-10 hr per day usage you'll probably find the connector at the resistor block has gotten distorted from the extra heat, or maybe it will be the switch on the dash. Both of those parts together are usually less than the resistor block so it's a good fix all around. And if you can't fix the module and end up buying a new one you can get a big ceramic resistor like the old Chrysler and Jeep ignition resistors and put that in line with the blower motor to limit total current usage and save the extra money you'd spend on the blower. If you have access to air it doesn't hurt if you can remove the motor and blow out all the carbon and dust that accumulated inside the motor housing.

    I'm a packrat in the worst way. I dug out my first PC, a P200 stuffed into a 486DX100 case, and it fired up right away. It even had correct date and time, and it hasn't run since '04. I had to remember a few old tricks to get Winnows 98 to talk with my network but overall it was a trouble free startup. The sad part is it's quicker to use and more responsive than my machine that's 5X faster in processor speed with 10X more memory, dual processors, and a heirarchy dedicated to moving data. I _hate_ forced Winnows upgrades. There's sooo much unnecessary junk that gets added to each new version of Gatesware it's ridiculous. I've tried moving to Linux more than once but the world is geared toward Microsoft and the switch is never permanent. Maybe I just need to buy a new machine with the latest version of Winnows and everything will get better.
    Last edited by 1project2many; 01-08-2012 at 05:56 PM.

  2. #2
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    I really liked XP! Finally a version that worked!

    Then the coffee through keyboard insident forced me to buy a new laptop, was very reluctant to get winnows 7 but it has been good!

    Still hate the FORCED douments, shared documents, my documents, admin only to change this and that, change user? What user? Me? FUDGE!!! I was so careful at first to be a machine for one person, with no password or switch user crap! yet still sometimes I go to find a file in my documents only to find I am in shared documents and there's nothing there?

    Why can't I just have a computer? You know like with C drive and your folders there?

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  3. #3
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1project2many View Post
    If it only works on high then it's a very easy fix. We have a bazillion Chrysler products in the fleet and I have done this many times. They call it a "module" but it's really just a cheap resistor block in ceramic substrate. There's a small bullet shaped piece that's a chemical fuse. They can be replaced but I just install a 25A fuse there and put it back together. In 4-5 years with 8-10 hr per day usage you'll probably find the connector at the resistor block has gotten distorted from the extra heat, or maybe it will be the switch on the dash. Both of those parts together are usually less than the resistor block so it's a good fix all around. And if you can't fix the module and end up buying a new one you can get a big ceramic resistor like the old Chrysler and Jeep ignition resistors and put that in line with the blower motor to limit total current usage and save the extra money you'd spend on the blower. If you have access to air it doesn't hurt if you can remove the motor and blow out all the carbon and dust that accumulated inside the motor housing.
    No, it doesnt work at all. The switch on the dash, or the controlls, send a 0-5 volt signal to this module to controll the fan speed. When I first noticed it didnt work, I looked under the dash and found the wires had been cut and the module had been bypassed, and then the wires cut again. I tried hooking the module back up and I got a poof of smoke and a blown 40 amp fuseable link under the hood. I replaced the fuse then hooked the wires up straight to the motor just to see if it worked, and the wires (pretty decent sized) started getting warm. So the motor works, its just pulling to many amps. It appears most of the time the connector melts, but mine the whole module went out too.
    http://www.wjjeeps.com/blower_motor.htm
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

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    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  4. #4
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    Devil's in the details. Auto climate control systems are definitely different. There's always toggle switches and an old fashioned blower resistor. :)

  5. #5
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    The Dakota is officially a 5 seater now.

    Got rid of that useless center seat in favour of a bonefied console. :D
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    Drove the Datsun around today.

    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  7. #7
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Nice weather in canada ay... must have been dry salt on the roads?

    I spent 12 hours working on th TunerPro look up and adding information to every $ECM info thread we have. They each have vehicles that the ECM and mask came with... I have 105 xdf files and only 45 ECM threads?

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
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  8. #8
    Vintage Methane Ejector
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    105 and counting, I left you a few more. :)

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