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Thread: 3.1 Turbo/Tuner pro HELP code59

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  1. #1
    Electronic Ignition!
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    Update. Strong voltage at the injectors, no short to grounds I can find.

    Also, I discovered when you crank it for extended periods of time, every 5 or 6 seconds you'll get one injector pulse, this is straight from the harness, injectors disconnected. When you test it through the injector connectors themselves, same result. They're just not getting decent signal from the ECM.

    Before I throw the ICM and CPS under the bus, not only are they both brand new, well fairly new, but I replaced the ICM with a known good one with the same results. And I'm getting RPM readings on the dash and through tunerpro, I'm just not getting injector signal.

    On that note:

    These past two days I've noticed something new, I simply cannot get my data stream working correctly. It connects and then disconnects endlessly, but when it connects you get a few seconds of data that seems to be correct. I've triple checked my tunerpro settings, my plug, connections in USB locations. It starts with an error 1 on tuner pro and will literally climb into the thousands cycling in and out of data.

    Im still entertaining the idea of a bad part or wiring issue, but I am just convinced it's got to be something in the tune I cannot find any other issue, and I'm running out of things to test

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    Have you tried disconnecting the TPS on an engine start attempt?
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  3. #3
    Electronic Ignition!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Six_Shooter View Post
    Have you tried disconnecting the TPS on an engine start attempt?
    Yes, and there was no change.

    However, after working through my computer and deleting a wireless printer that was taking up all of my comm slots, (emulator and the extreme ALDL we're running on comm 17 and 18 on the laptop), I have recovered all data acquisition, and the emulator is working great from what I can tell.

    A few quick mentions before I dive in again, I have a personal salvage yard. I went ahead and threw in three different coils that were known to be good and tested good, a different ICM, which would be the third one, but I have that kind of luck. and it's here. I wouldn't purchase these things to throw parts at it. I just have plenty of everything on hand.

    I feel like I may have lost a few of the followers, so let's recap.

    I have covered all hardware, twice over on this car. Healthy wire harness, ohm meter shows no shorts on any of the ECM wires (I've found), I'm so in-depth in this issue that I've checked most to make sure that it wasn't being shorted ANYWHERE. All six injectors ohm out perfectly, 36lb for reference. At the beginning of this issue I threw in a brand new crank sensor that I had on hand and never used. As well as an extra crank sensor wire that I had stored, ran it under the oil pan and just bypass the one that is looped through the valley. I've covered all of the wiring and hardware, and parts have been interchanged to no prevail, again because they're here.

    So regardless of the ICM I have installed, whenever I have the noid light set hooked up, I will get a bright flash initially, sometimes the engine will stumble and try to start, but the recurring flashes are dim and intermittent. After doing a test for spark, currently the prevailing issue is I have spark but it is intermittent.

    Ex; You'll see spark, and then for a revolution you won't see a few, and then for three revolutions or more it will be perfect. And then you'll lose spark for six revolutions and then it'll come back for two, you get the point.

    Intermittent spark loss. Intermittent injector pulses. I don't want to be the person that dismisses all suggestions, but I've been through four known good ecms, a few different proms that are eligible to run my setup, with flashable chips installed. Matching map sensors to each mask, one bar all the way up to three. This issue prevails regardless. I'm becoming more and more confident in the vehicle should run with the tune setup, everything seems to be set right with timing. In which may force me to look elsewhere for assistance.

    I have currently stopped experimenting with other masks, I'm on 59, 3 bar map. I think I've proven that this issue is going to prevail regardless what I do, tune wise.

    I understand that the readers cannot be here to observe the vehicle, but I can almost bet a million that I've tried most suggestions. And I've built this car from the ground up, so me reaching out to people who don't know the vehicle shows how desperate I am. So I guess at this point if this forum will still benefit this issue in any way, it'll be someone having a similar issue in finding a short or something somewhere that is easily overlooked, that I've missed. I suppose it is possible that it's something I'm uploading inaccurately into the emulator, but I've even been on the phone with moates support. So I don't know, if anyone else has any more to add to the thread I'd be honored to read it. And as soon as I fix the problem, I'll update this post. Thx

    Adam

  4. #4
    Electronic Ignition!
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    Also, I would like to add, I recently installed wide band. SM-AFR DM-6. I have done my research, and I'm confident in where I pinned it in. But I would like someone to verify, the correct pin for the 7730. Regardless of my research.

    The reason being is my narrow band reads back the voltage, with key on. I understand it's not going to be accurate until it warms up a little bit, but I get a response. Whenever I'm looking on tunerpro, under WBo2, it reads as following:

    10.00 Actual AFR
    4.80 Desired AFR

    Desired will bounce around when I'm cranking, but I never get a change on actual. Am I waiting for this one to heat up to respond or do I have it pinned incorrectly?

    Thank you

  5. #5
    Electronic Ignition! MG-Maxx's Avatar
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    Just learning myself.

    I have my WB on Pin F14, running S-AUJP. Also A3 can be used, option select in tune at least on the S-AUJP. I will be switching over to Code 59 when adding turbos.

  6. #6
    Electronic Ignition!
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    So now I've got the dash pulled slightly out, as well as every single piece of conduit off the harness, it all looks healthy and beautiful and I've moved every square inch of it, it's all been wiggled and hand gone through. The short I thought I had, was really weak, I chased it from the ICM, up to where it meets the injectors, back to the ecm, back out across the engine bay and all the way to the fuse box, ecm fuse number one.

    The back of one shoots up with a pink and white wire that goes to the cluster, as soon as I unplug the cluster I lose that faint ground. So I said awesome, I figured it out. left the cluster unplugged, same thing. It's got to just be a parasitic ground it's picking up through a circuit in the cluster, and I bet if I had another L body here it'd probably test the same.

    Other than that, I can honestly say I've been through every wire behind the dash and under the hood. Tried another ECM today, no luck. Everything looks good on data acquisition, all sensors are responding. But even a test at the harness where the injectors plug in, one bright pulse followed by a few faint pulses and then all pulse is gone.

    Spark is hit and miss, this has to be in the tune. I'm just inches away from blaming my emulator, as if it's sending trash to the ecm. I mean there is just simply nothing else I can think of otherwise I would try it in a heartbeat!

    I never really believed anything was wrong with the harness until I found that parasitic ground, but no dice.

    I've been into L bodies for almost a decade, 60°v6 motors for two decades, and I've been working on cars in general just as long. I can count on one hand how many times I asked for help, how many times I just could not figure it out. The situation has got to top every memory I have of a difficult repair. I'm about to have to tap out for a little while I just don't know what else to do, I've done it.

    Thanks guys

  7. #7
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    The ECM is not even in the mix for spark while cranking, so you can rule out the ECM being the issue there.

    The ignition will be base timing triggered directly from the ICM and crank sensor/dizzy reluctor. Once the engine goes above 400 RPM, THEN the ECM will take over spark timing.

    You don't even need the ECM plugged into the harness and you will have spark in a properly running system.

    If you have inconsistent spark you will have inconsistent fuel delivery.

    Figure out your spark issue, then the fuel will probably follow in line.
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

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