Tunerpro RT $4F connection problems

[duecepipes22]

I think my problem may be that a sprung another vacuum leak! I just retorqued my throttle body and EGR block off bolts and they both seemed to be pretty loose. Unfortunately I think the idle was still changing with the lighter fluid spray... here we go again, but I'm assuming I found out why my BLMs were off again. Would that make sense?

[EagleMark]

Yup! I knew something was wrong...

I thought I was daring with short bursts of starting fluid? Your actually useing liquid? I dono bout that... be safe please! Really the safest way I know is a propane tourch, sometimes it needs to be on high and close up with wind from fans. Safety glasses, gloves and long arm, really reach in to it and keep your face away!!! Please be safe...

[duecepipes22]

I've been using spray can starter fluid. I figured, besides blowing up my face, truck, garage and half the neighborhood, whats the worst that could happen?.... I'll reconsider doing it that way. I'm thinking about just calling around to see if any local shops do smoke testing and what they charge for it.

I grabbed the "AWSY 92 C-K-P Truck 5.7TBI 5 speed" bin you have on the $4f thread and inserted my fuel and spark tables as well as what I have been doing to delete my EGR. Would there be anything else to change or do you think it looks good? I couldn't see any other differences, but then again, I wouldn't know what to look for.

[EagleMark]

Very short little bursts of starter fluid with your hand fully extended, that way if it finds ignition it's a very short little explosion!

It's still doing the same thing? Warmed up, start log, little lean 134ish, then get's almost perfect then ends up pig rich? I've never seen that before? Maybe spark going away?

[duecepipes22]

I haven't relogged with this bin since fixing the vacuum leak (if it is fixed, fingers crossed). I feel pretty confident that it will be better once its fixed, but then again, I'm just a newbie. Like I've said, I wouldn't be surprised if the spark was failing considering all the miles, but I would think that it would run a little rough if that was the case. It still accelerates/drives perfectly smooth.

[duecepipes22]

I just got done doing a data log after attempting to fix the vacuum leak. It seems to be doing better and according to the BLMs it looks like its running less rich again. However, while I was cruising at about 2000 RPMs my EGR tried to kick on again and instantly the BLMs went from 128 to 109. I cant figure out how to get that thing to stay off!! I've got the EGR enable temp all the way up, the EGR on and off TPS% are both at 0 and the Option Word Bit 7 is off.

I guess at this point I'm also confused as to why my BLMs were back to perfect at 2000 RPM and above (prior to EGR trying to kick in) yet below 2000 it didn't lean out as much after fixing the vacuum leak.

[EagleMark]

Yeah that was doing way better! Why does the EGR keep coming on? Post up your bin and we can take a look, for some reason it is not disabled, we may have to 0 out tables or?

Below 2000 RPM is much higher vacuum, so you had a much higher vacuum leak. At least they are consistent now and tunable.