Not that I think it will fix the EGR issue but raise the EGR on TPS to 100% or what ever the max is on the scale.
Not that I think it will fix the EGR issue but raise the EGR on TPS to 100% or what ever the max is on the scale.
1978 Camaro Type LT, 383, Dual TBI, '7427, 4L80E
1981 Camaro Z-28 Clone, T-Tops, 350/TH350
1981 Camaro Berlinetta, V-6, 3spd
1974 Chevy/GMC Truck, '90 TBI 350, '7427, TH350, NP203, 6" lift, 35s
I just took it out for a run with the EGR on TPS% at 100% and the EGR never tried turning on so thanks!
Mark, which bin did you look at? All of my most recent bins I've had the EGR on temp maxed out. Are you referring to the Bit 5 code 32 flag? I've left that on so I know if its still trying to turn the EGR on, should I have that off too?
One other thing, I regapped my plugs today (most of them were close to .050 and I should be at .035) back to .035 and did a data log (I lost all my data because my computer died at the end of the run) and it seemed to idle a little better but my numbers were even more rich. Does that mean that now I'm not burning all the fuel that we just started adding to it because of the smaller gap? With my old stock ignition, I know I don't want to be running that wide of a gap but it seems like the BLMs preferred the wider gap.
I've got TPS Tune4.bin in my TunerPro history so I think that was last I looked at. Glad the EGR issue went away.
IIRC bigger then .035 spark plug gaps was a phase manufactures went through? Not really sure if newer cars still do this, I know it went up then back on vehicles I had and work with. I can't remember last time I gapped more then .035, less with boost.
Also everyone here knows my word is not an end all, I can be proven wrong and welcome the opportunity to more knowledge...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Back in 1995 is when I remember this phase, then gaps went back? Don't know the whys?
DIS is good stuff but lots of ignitions can jump half inch, does it really help ignite a highely flammable mixture under pressure?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Good points... I know mine is supposed to be at .035 but a couple months ago I decided to open it up to .045 and see what happened. I wasn't sure if I was a victim of the placebo effect, but I actually thought it ran worse so I reduced it to .040. Now either the cheapo autozone tool was way off or they actually had opened up to .050. I trust that its strong enough to arc that gap, but with 262,000 miles on all my ignition stuff, I don't want to push it.
Does that make any sense though that it would suddenly run more rich now after decreasing the gaps? I'm finally going to grab an ohm/voltage meter today and start testing my ignition stuff.
Your biggest issue with that many miles on a Small Cap distributor is the reluctor is probably cracked. If you take off the cap and rotor and the reluctor is clean look at it for cracks on black part between metal posts. There is also an issue of distributor gear wear, shaft wear, green corrosion on pickup coil and wires.
The best thing you could do for all the work you have into that motor is a new GM distributor.
Take off the coil wire on coil and see if it is also corroded.
Your way beyond service life of those parts...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
pressure = resistance. the more pressure you have in the cylinder(from both static and dynamic compression), the more voltage you need to reliably jump the gap. most noticable at peak torque RPM, if it's not making the jump. the 3100 and 3400s ran .060 from their beginning to end, 1993 to ~2005.
yes, completely stock. just about to roll over 201,000. 2 of 3 coilpacks are originals, 1 was replaced in ~2002 or so.
Thanks everyone for your continued help!
I finally pulled my dizzy out to inspect things and sure enough, I have a crack in the magnet between the center of the reluctor and the star looking piece (not sure what its actually called) I've been searching all day to find a delco or delphi dizzy but I have found nothing! I will try the dealerships tomorrow, but is it possible to just replace the reluctor? There seems to be no wobble in the shaft, surprisingly. I'll probably do the coil and module while I'm at it too.
Last I looked for reluctor on shaft cost was same as complete distributor. Beware of cheap knock offs, this is an important part and really not that expensive to get correct piece.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Apparently this is easier said than done because all the dealerships in my area said GM discontinued them and they couldn't even find anyone in the area that might have one lying around! Any other brands that you trust?
I actually just found a Delco one at Factory Motor parts... they want $393.89 for it!
Last edited by duecepipes22; 07-02-2012 at 08:04 PM.
I use http://www.rockauto.com for my '93 Corsica.
Robert
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