350 with 30lb injectors

[ZEDRATED]

I'm not worried about the way the fan works as I have it controlled with the flexalite box with the rod sensor in the rad. I just change the contant in TunerPro?
Thanks

[ZEDRATED]

Just wonderig which bin I should try for now?
APYP-manual 350 Vette or APYU-350 F Car?
And adjust the single fire and double fire injector constants to 30# and see how it runs for now.
When you say to adjust the single fire and double fire injector constants to 30#, is that a simple thing to do in TunerPro? What do I have to do to modify the bin so there is no EGR?
Thanks.

[ZEDRATED]

Also, how do I disable the cooling fans in the computer as I have it controlled by the Flexalite temp controller.
Thanks.

[1project2many]

IIRC there's an "enable temp" for EGR. Set it to the highest number to disable. Changing the injector number is easy. Look for injector rate single fire and injector rate double fire, or something similar. Changing that number is only part of the story without the corrections but it's going to be closer than a stock chip. There's no real need to disable the fans but you can set the enable temp to the highest setting to keep the ecm from trying to turn them on.

[ZEDRATED]

Ok that sounds easy enough. How about the EGR? And also which bin file would be best?
350 stock bin for F car or the 350 Vette manual?
Is adjusting the injector constant easily done?
I'm still waiting for a reply on those injector corrections but no reply.
Thanks.

[1project2many]

Safest thing to do is adjust the single fire and double fire injector constants to 30# on a stock 350 F car calibration. APYU might be a good one to start with as it has 3.27 "performance" gears.

I'd say spend some time working with Tunerpro. Open files, look at values, make some changes. You should be able to figure it out.

[EagleMark]

Ok that sounds easy enough. How about the EGR? And also which bin file would be best?
350 stock bin for F car or the 350 Vette manual?
Is adjusting the injector constant easily done?
I'm still waiting for a reply on those injector corrections but no reply.
Thanks.

He mentioned that a few posts ago.

Your all set up to do data and burn chips, your also lucky that 1project2many is willing to help you get going! A wealth of information is available to come your way and we will all learn from it. So just slow down a bit, make sure you read, follow instructions and you'll end up with not only a car that runs but some tuning skills!

[ZEDRATED]

OK. Sounds good. I will start with that bin and play around. Again, thanks for the help. It is very much appreaciated. Sorry I repeated some questions, it's just that the forum and my emails timing was acting up and seemed off.
Will post once I have played around with the 350 f car bin.
Thanks gentlemen.

[ZEDRATED]

What I was able to find out is that the injectors are the OEM replacement specifications. So the same would hold true for the ACCEL injectors as it would be for any OEM application Ford, Chevy, Mopar.

This is what prestolite performance told me but doesn't sound right?
What should I reply to him with?

Thanks.

[EagleMark]

Same info as needed earlier...

We need voltage corrections, small pulsewidth corrections, and minimum pulsewidth values.

But it looks like beating your head on a wall will yeild more results, at least you would have a hole in wall and a sore head in the end.

You can tune what you have but you'll be chasing your tail trying to work out differences with OEM specs as there is only an ice cubes chance in hell they are correct. Tuning will be a guess here and a fudge there and even then may still having running/drivability issues in certain situations at the end, fix one and cause another... Just look at OEM Chevy, Ford and Mopar specs and they are all differant? Now if Accell would release this information (if they have it?) they would sell more injectors and tuning results would be worth the effort.

By the time you paid to have the injectors tested and documented you could have bought a set of Chevy or known spec injectors.

Again look at link I gave earlier to see voltage offsets, they are so differant between known Accell injectors? and all others... most are dialed in to 14 volts at 1.00 but at 13.8 could be 1.00 or .98 or 1.02 so 4% difference in a .2 volt span, how far off are they going to be at 13.5? Or during cranking? Or if all accessories are on at idle and only 12.5 volts? Try to get a good idle there when voltage offset is changing fueling by 10% or so?

You can still start working on your tune to get running and learning, changing injectors or getting specs in end will reduce chasing issues related. Just stick to basics of tune.

Before that does the motor need 30lb injectors? What is approx HP rating? Use a calculater or spreadsheet with that HP and calculate the need for fuel and pressure, keeping near stock pressure and matching to correct size injector is the easier path.

Whatever you do in meantime do not run motor WOT until you know you have enough fuel to support it, including injector size, fuel pressure and pump to keep fuel pressure there at WOT/high load. A perfect tune that does not have enough fuel WOT will run lean and melt pistons etc... if you don't have enough fuel for WOT it is a waste of time to make a tune idle and drive!