Updated my profile to Atlanta, GA area. Moved here 26 years ago from NY, Westchester County. Locations surrounding Atlanta require emission testing. One other thing I forgot to mention your IAC count at idle is low for an LT1, your TPS voltage (set screw) 0.61 is good, but IAC counts 6-13 at idle will work but may cause slight stumble when hitting the throttle. The LT1 IAC valve feeds the intake air plenums, and the plenums distribute idle air evenly to all cylinders. The engine likes that much more than idle air entering the TB blades up front. Your IAC before the stumble was at 6, saying you are getting a lot of idle air from the TB blades. Cracking the screw back a bit will drop voltage and raise IAC counts. It will move the TB/IAC balance of air towards the IAC side. Voltage specs. of closed TBS is 0.45-0.75, going to 0.55 will be in spec and may help off throttle hesitation.
Back to EGR.. it's purpose is to cool the combustion temperature (adding co2) thus reducing NO a by-product of hot combustion. The hot combustion occurs at the lower RPM load conditions (1000-2100), higher RPM starts flowing a lot or air into the cylinder cooling the combustion, so EGR cuts off at that point. And lower RPM below 1000 does not result in a hot cylinder situation. Key is to activate EGR so you don't feel it or know it's working, in a stock setup 1000 turn on and 2100 turnoff s/b fine and will keep some poisons out of the air. It has high MAP cutoff so when you hit the throttle for performance it should be out of the picture as far as performance. It's really only on during DD street cruising.
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