Maybe I'm assuming a box larger than just bigger than the board. What are the dimensions of the box you recommend, or a source and part number.
Maybe I'm assuming a box larger than just bigger than the board. What are the dimensions of the box you recommend, or a source and part number.
Last edited by roby; 08-17-2013 at 11:25 PM.
3" X 2" X 1" box. you can find them at radioshack.
the way i build them, the squared off section of the male USB connector that mates to the FT232 board is rubber that compresses nicely. cut a hole slightly smaller than that squared section, press it in and it won't come out without taking the top off and pushing it back upwards.
Ah, so USB cable is permanently attached, and both cables are sandwiched by the lid in cut outs, now it makes sense. Thank you
6-pin USB-serial.JPG
You guys should know that you don't really have to fool with putting an adapter into a box or fitting the connectors to it. This FT232RL-based one in the photo is available for about $8-9 shipped. All you have to do is cut off the small 6-pin connector and the wires leaving only the white, green and black ones. Then splice them to your 12-pin/16-pin connector or pigtail. The 12-pin pigtail can be easily gotten for about $5-6 in the form of a 12-pin to 16-pin adapter (cut off the 16-pin one and throw it away). Splice the white and green to the brown (pin M) wire and splice the black ones together. Tape it up or use shrink tubing and you are done. This adapter has a translucent case so you can see the red and green lights (TX and RX).
i don't like the versions that have all of the circuit right at the USB connector.... my aldlcables.com version was like that, only lasted between 12 and 18 months before it completely failed. something up there failed and obviously couldn't be repaired and not look like a total hackjob.
the enclosure also allows for a nice place to mount the switch for the 10K resistor and relieves strain on the solder joints.
Sorry, I'm only an EE with 45 years experience with this kind of stuff. Won't bother you again.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I just tested this adapter:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/718
It's part of my Project Lab III kit (school), so I figured I'd give it a try in Tuner Pro.
At first I forgot about shorting the TX and RX pins, but after using an alligator clip positioned carefully, it passed the test.
I then connected it to an ECM on my test bench ('7730 running a stock ARUT MEMCAL $A1), connected as quickly as my Moates cable.
Just thought I'd pass it along.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
I tried a similar one and it worked while the truck was key on, engine off. Once I turned it on, it would only stay connected for about 2-4 seconds and then it lost connection. I don't remember which voltage version I used.
What voltage are you running yours at?
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/718
Familiar with 1227747 and 16197427 PCMs
Currently I have left it at the as shipped 3.3V setting.
I'm going to make a better test rig that I can plug into a vehicle to do more testing. I need to make sure that it works for my school project though, since I need it to program my Dragonfly board...
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
It is, because it's not shared with the vehicle.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
NOOB here \ first post..... I read all 11 pages, but just want to confirm........ this is the proven board:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-Module-USB-to-TTL-level-USB-Cable-dupont-248-/260917151841?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbfdf c861
also, will this allow me to program on board computer to improve performance \ gain HP?
I think what you guys are doing is awesome...... any advice would be greatly appreciated.
94 impala ss LT1
Bookmarks