1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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Hello, would you mind explaining what you mean by "the cross counts ruin the idea of using it as a gauge" ? Trying to learn a few things.
The trouble with getting even a stock bin to start with is that I'd have to copy all the 454 tables into the 350 bin since I am using a 4L60E trans… and that seems a little overwhelming for a beginner like me. :(
You can't just watch the NB and expect it to say "lean" or "rich." In closed loop the ecm will command the engine lean - rich - lean - rich, back and forth and if you connect a gauge to the O2 signal that's what you'll see. You can use NBO2 readings from the scantool or datalogger along with a few other values as a general indicator of lean operation but that's not the same as tying in a gauge.Hello, would you mind explaining what you mean by "the cross counts ruin the idea of using it as a gauge" ? Trying to learn a few things.
I *believe* Mark offered to help you get a starter calibration going. He does pro tuning and I'm sure his prices are reasonable. OTOH, with the amount of days that have passed since you first posted, an hour per day would probably have netted a finished cal by now. If you start the process and post your progress as you go, you might find people are willing to check out the work and advise as you progress.
:) Thanks for the advice. Indeed I am floundering. I know a lot about electronics and I rebuilt this engine but I really have no idea even where to start when it comes to tuning it. I did PM Mark about hiring him for some help but didn't receive any reply. Perhaps I will try again. OTOH I am willing to do the process myself but I am sorry to say I don't even know where to start really. I have the SW and the burner and can do traces (albeit with TTS Datamaster right now) but I am not sure what really my first step is. I've asked the questions I have in order to try and figure out the starting point but apparently I am too dense to determine where that point is from these responses. Sorry if I am frustrating. :) I appreciate your responses thus far man! Thanks.
Also- I think I see your point about the cross counts etc… I think you are saying this: In closed loop, the O2 sensor will always be bouncing back and forth around 0.5V. I get that- that is what closed loop does. BUT… my original question was meant to ask this (probably did a poor job of asking)… at WOT can I use the O2 sensor to give an Idea of rich/lean condition (again- only during WOT)?
Not a problem. Plenty of us here are very busy. May I suggest using just one thread?I've asked the questions I have in order to try and figure out the starting point but apparently I am too dense to determine where that point is from these responses. Sorry if I am frustrating. :) I appreciate your responses thus far man! Thanks.
Yes, but...at WOT can I use the O2 sensor to give an Idea of rich/lean condition (again- only during WOT)?
There's much more than WOT to be worried about. Excess spark advance can take out a set of rod bearings at low load. Sustained lean operation can cause piston surfaces to burn away without ever getting above 1/2 throttle. Most times it's easy to spot a problem but not always. Does your engine use a knock sensor? If not, consider it a necessity and install one. Then use your logging software to watch knock counts, BLM, INT, and O2 values to try and catch problems. But remember: All you're trying to do is keep the engine from blowing up before you get the correct cal. The best approach would be to park the vehicle until the right cal is obtained.
OK.
thanks for the advice. I have a knock sensor and it is working. So is your recommendation (if I do this all on my own)- to start by opening two TunerPro sessions and copying all the fuel and spark tables from a $0E bin (454 with 4L80) into a $0D (350 with 4L60) … then start it up, idle it, and post a log? Is this the best way to start then?
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