Knock sensor and related parts

[doc_rock]

just stepped through everything, and I think I have it right.
The only confusion I have is a couple places where referencing all these files for copy/paste/etc gets confusing.
I'm assuming that I save a new S_AUJP file, and after that point in step 1.4 of the MUSTREADME doc, you would then call the S_AUJP you've saved out to, not the original.

or am I screwing up saving it off as a different name?

[84Elky]

just stepped through everything, and I think I have it right.
The only confusion I have is a couple places where referencing all these files for copy/paste/etc gets confusing.
I'm assuming that I save a new S_AUJP file, and after that point in step 1.4 of the MUSTREADME doc, you would then call the S_AUJP you've saved out to, not the original.

or am I screwing up saving it off as a different name?

Looking at the 2 bins in your zip in Post #11, I have no idea what's been done.
JMD012-355-tpi-7730-6_08_06_JMH.bin: This BIN is total garbage ans is not $8d. Have no idea what it is.
S_AUJP v6-28jmh682020.BIN: This is essentially the released BIN without change.
So not surprised it won't run.

Let's go back to ground zero.

1.
Please post up the bin file you extracted from the "custom chip"

2.
Once that's available, I'll copy that calibration to S_AUJP and post it so you'll have a "starting point" bin.

But when you post your bin file, you also need to describe how you will burn that bin to a chip so it can be used, or what intermediary device you will be using in place of a burned chip.

[doc_rock]

Looking at the 2 bins in your zip in Post #11, I have no idea what's been done.
JMD012-355-tpi-7730-6_08_06_JMH.bin: This BIN is total garbage ans is not $8d. Have no idea what it is.
S_AUJP v6-28jmh682020.BIN: This is essentially the released BIN without change.
So not surprised it won't run.

Let's go back to ground zero.

1.
Please post up the bin file you extracted from the "custom chip"

2.
Once that's available, I'll copy that calibration to S_AUJP and post it so you'll have a "starting point" bin.

But when you post your bin file, you also need to describe how you will burn that bin to a chip so it can be used, or what intermediary device you will be using in place of a burned chip.

OK, now we're getting somewhere.
The JMD012-355 bin is what is running in the car. That's the BIN from the original chip. So let's step through how I got that off of the chip - and tell me if I did it wrong.
pulled the MEMCAL out of the car (7730)
popped it in the moates chip adapter with the cold start/limp home modules hanging off the back of the burner
notch on the chip pointed to the top
opened flash n burn and copied the file down
saved the buffer to bin

is that the right process?

[84Elky]

Doc ---
My sincere apologies. You need the HDR1 ($10) to extract the bin from a 7730 MEMCAL, and not the HDR6. Don't know what I was thinking. That's why the extracted bin is garbage. HDR6 is for 128K.
I talked to Moates and they will exchange it if you sent them an email and then they will provide instructions. For expediency, you might consider an out right purchase and then a return for credit. But do send an email or call at 225-341-3547. You might also talk to them about the proper procedure using your burner. I don't know because I use their autoprom and TunerPro. Again, apologies!

HDR1 instructions here: http://www.moates.net/documentation....entation_id=12.

[doc_rock]

Doc ---
My sincere apologies. You need the HDR1 ($10) to extract the bin from a 7730 MEMCAL, and not the HDR6. Don't know what I was thinking. That's why the extracted bin is garbage. HDR6 is for 128K.
I talked to Moates and they will exchange it if you sent them an email and then they will provide instructions. For expediency, you might consider an out right purchase and then a return for credit. But do send an email or call at 225-341-3541. You might also talk to them about the proper procedure using your burner. I don't know because I use their autoprom and TunerPro. Again, apologies!

HDR1 instructions here: http://www.moates.net/documentation....entation_id=12.

thank you!!!
I'll get on it right now with them - well - in between conference calls or whatever it is.
I'm beyond pleased we identified an issue - I hate throwing parts at anything.

I'll let you know when that comes back. Thanks again!

edit: So that also explains why everything was all strange in trying to compare the two .BIN, copy over the data (I had to copy the entire .bin, except for the last 10 or so lines) and nothing was the same in the file comparison.

[trlrider]

84 Elky - another newbie here just learning allot. Your explanations are starting to clear up some confusion I have. All good stuff, thank you to you and the other experienced gearheads here that are willing to help.

[84Elky]

Sorry for not responding for so long. Been working on another project. Have looked at your BIN and the 2 logs of 8/5/2020. My comments apply to both logs.

Log Comments
- Engine is pig rich (10-20%) AT <= 80 kPa all RPMs and especially at idle. This is due to a combination of VE tables and possible injector flow rate. To start, I'd reduce VE tables 5% at <=80 kPa at all RPMs, and 10% at idle RPM
- Spark is too high despite AL heads because knock retard is occurring even without a slow knock count being reported. This is likely due to 10:1 CR and fuel. I'd reduce 5 degrees everywhere as a start and keep reducing until no retard.
- Constantly reporting Error 13 (o2 sensor voltage in narrow range for too long). Not critical because going into CL. I need to review the cause of this.
- Voltage appears low at switch and pump. Never above 13v. Should be 13.5+. Either you have a very well charged battery or alternator output not optimal. This will affect BPW due to voltage offset PW (see BIN comments below)
- No indication that car is out of gear. Not important, just strange

BIN Comments
- I would change the following back to Factory settings. These likely got changed in the "custom tune":
--- 0x5AC Decel Enlean, If NOT Active, Force INT=128 if RPM <=, from 900 to 1200
--- 0x5EA DFCO, If in DFCO SS, Added to TF-TPS%, from 0.0% to 3.13% TPS (I believe you have manual trans, so if changing this causes undesirable results, can always change back
--- 0x5EC AE-TPS, DFCO Stall Saver PW Adder, from 1.95 to 3.91 (ditto above)
--- 0x617 PE, % Change to AFR .vs. RPM (Lambda W) (see attachment for Factory values you need) Yours are totally screwed up. Some negative. This will affect calculated PE AFR and thus PW when in PE
Lw.GIF
- Main Spark Table:
--- I'd increase SA at idle RPM/kPa from 21.04 to 23 or 24 degrees based on your high CR and high MAP at idle.
--- Spark at all kPas makes an exponential jump between 1400 and 1600 RPM. Wow!. Not what you want. The all-in spark is good at 3200 RPM. Take a look at this on how to build a Spark Table: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ml#post6301288
- If you have a Manual Trans, your MUST set this bit which is not currently set: Switch 18 (0x018) - Bit 2 - Manual/Auto Transmission Select
- Need to make the Changes to the ALDL Reporting Scalars to report a lot of info you're not currently seeing in a log (AE-TPS, AE-MAP, PE, DFCO, etc.) See bottom of page 26 of Readme in Appendix A. The ALDL Reporting Scalars are the first 63 Scalars in the XDF.
- Injector offsets:
--- Table at 0x40B: Injector PW Correction if PW < 3.90ms (Low PW Offset). Need to zero all values. They are adding undesired fuel at idle.
--- Table at 0x3FA: Injector PW Correction .vs. Fuel Pump or Ignition Switch Voltage. Need to change from the Factory Multec settings but you don't know what injectors you have. I'd use 75% of your factory values until you can determine what they need to be -- especially with your switch/pump low voltage. Won't hurt anything other than consistently adding less fuel, which is what you need.
- Unless you want it, I'd change all parameters that induce Highway spark and fuel (see S_AUJP Readme on how to disable)

HTH, Elky

[doc_rock]

Doc ---
My sincere apologies. You need the HDR1 ($10) to extract the bin from a 7730 MEMCAL, and not the HDR6. Don't know what I was thinking. That's why the extracted bin is garbage. HDR6 is for 128K.
I talked to Moates and they will exchange it if you sent them an email and then they will provide instructions. For expediency, you might consider an out right purchase and then a return for credit. But do send an email or call at 225-341-3547. You might also talk to them about the proper procedure using your burner. I don't know because I use their autoprom and TunerPro. Again, apologies!

HDR1 instructions here: http://www.moates.net/documentation....entation_id=12.

OK, before I go and get this all sorted out with SAUJP - this is the .BIN file I pulled using the HDR1.

Does this look more like it should?

[stew86MCSS396]

It looks as it should. Didn't spend much time looking through it. It does have 29# injectors whereas stock 350 is 22#? If you use TunerPro's compare tool it appears AUJP is the starting bin as delta compare returns a lot of zeroes in the timing tables. Doesn't look like individual cells in the VE tables were tuned as it appears some areas tuner just dumped a +10 across the board. Sorry if didn't provide any more assistance. Happy tuning!

[84Elky]

OK, before I go and get this all sorted out with SAUJP - this is the .BIN file I pulled using the HDR1.

Does this look more like it should?

Yes, it's now reasonable, relatively reasonable. There are so many differences from a stock TPI that it's going to take a while to sort out. No reason for many of these changes, like spark latency; but that's what happens with a "custom tune". For example, you said in Post #1 that your base timing was 10 deg. The BIN is 6 deg. That's a problem right there. Don't change your distributor setting if in fact you are really at 10 deg at operating temp with bypass line disconnected. We'll just change the final calibration to 10 deg.

Let me look at it for a while and I'll be back with some recommendations.

Also, injector flow rate is set to 30#. What # injectors are you using?

[doc_rock]

Also, injector flow rate is set to 30#. What # injectors are you using?

That may be a place to start.

Who knows where these injectors came from. Orange tops, "Python" stamped in the plastic, and no other markings anywhere on the injector that I can find.

Searching for a python 30lb injector brings up a bunch of orange ones - so maybe that's what they were, but I can't find anything about quality of them. Scares me to death all I see referenced for them is Damford.