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Thread: '87 350 TBI, custom application, looking to go bare-bones

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrgto68 View Post
    Wouldn't this cause the computer to continue making adjustments? I thought raising the idle would need to be made via programming ?
    Your IAC will rise up too. Eventually O2 and closed loop will change too. If you don`t want idle setting over programming, why don`t you mount a manual choke to the gas pedal?

    I looked to your xdl and imported it to excel. I fear if you want to reach your goal, you have to programm the memcal.At the moment the border line for switching to closed loop seems to be at 800 rpm.You may detect that if you hold your idle speed at constantly 825, your desired rpm) for a while.Have a look to column BD (closed loop) and column BR (rpm).
    Engine was not fully warmed up when you stopped your logging.No fault codes at the moment.But have a look to excel yourself. Rename xuza.txt XUZA.xls.
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    Last edited by mecanicus; 02-17-2019 at 10:46 AM.

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    Is it safe to assume that the relay on the firewall to the right of the Fuel Pump relay is the THM400 relay?
    I'm sorry, but I seem to be having trouble seeing the relay or any of the wires attached to it. Maybe you have a wiring diagram and can match up wire colors?

    I could try and find a smaller pulley for the alternator, but would rather bump the idle up to at least 850 rpm which would allow the alternators to charge at 14v and peak output.
    In industries such as transit and utility we usually opt to increase alternator rpm without increasing engine speed when possible. There are some tradeoffs to increasing idle speed above converter stall speed. With custom programming, which is easier to do than some of the work around solutions you're thinking about, you could set conditions so the idle speed is only increased when necessary. If you're not interested in programming then a mechanical solution to alter throttle position when needed is the best.

    Are you able to read the data file I attached to my post earlier today?
    I'm not at the programming stage of my TBI education lol. I'm still trying to figure that all out.
    There are new terms and procedures to programming along with a few new tools. But once you get the hang of it making changes can be easier and less time consuming than a tune-up on your R30. We can even help. It may be possible to locate a copy of your chip on the 'net which would allow viewing of the contents without actually disturbing the chip. There's a three or four letter code on the chip called a BCC. If you find that we can look for a file that is similar.

    In the meantime this calibration is from an '87 3500 truck with 350 and THM400. It is likely to be close to yours in many ways. I've also included an xdf file for Tunerpro. This way you have the tools to begin looking at what's under the hood, so to speak, of your computer. There are a *lot* of variables when you first look through. Most don't need to be changed so you won't need to worry about them. But as you learn about what they do and think about how you want your vehicle set up, you may decide it is appropriate to change some. For example, it may be appropriate to disable the EGR. Setting the EGR CTS Enable to max temp and EGR On TPS to max would effectively disable EGR.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1project2many View Post
    There are new terms and procedures to programming along with a few new tools. But once you get the hang of it making changes can be easier and less time consuming than a tune-up on your R30. We can even help. It may be possible to locate a copy of your chip on the 'net which would allow viewing of the contents without actually disturbing the chip. There's a three or four letter code on the chip called a BCC. If you find that we can look for a file that is similar.
    Awesome! Thank you

    BCC: AHWZ 7639


    Just the few steps that DaveW had me take, ie: 3 wire O2 Sensor etc has the vehicle sounding and running much better at Idle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mecanicus View Post
    Your IAC will rise up too. Eventually O2 and closed loop will change too. If you don`t want idle setting over programming, why don`t you mount a manual choke to the gas pedal?

    I looked to your xdl and imported it to excel. I fear if you want to reach your goal, you have to programm the memcal.At the moment the border line for switching to closed loop seems to be at 800 rpm.You may detect that if you hold your idle speed at constantly 825, your desired rpm) for a while.Have a look to column BD (closed loop) and column BR (rpm).
    Engine was not fully warmed up when you stopped your logging.No fault codes at the moment.But have a look to excel yourself. Rename xuza.txt XUZA.xls.

    Thanks for looking this over for me. I'll run a log again, I must have somehow stopped the logging sooner then I thought.

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    You have the wiring diagramm from SOOB, there you can see pin B8 is coming from A/C pressure switch. Try to give it a minus signal alternatively a plus signal, if you are lucky, rpm will rise a bit!

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    [QUOTE=1project2many;74246]I'm sorry, but I seem to be having trouble seeing the relay or any of the wires attached to it. Maybe you have a wiring diagram and can match up wire colors?

    Sorry about that, On the firewall there are two relays, the one on the left is the Fuel Pump Relay. It was already removed so that photo only showed what I believe could be the TH400 relay. Here are two photos, one showing the Fuel pump relay on the left which was removed and the relay in question.

    I cleaned up the wires, the colors are a little faded, but it looks like orange, tan/blk, red/blk, brwn/blk?

    relay2.jpg
    relay1.jpg

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    [QUOTE=Mrgto68;74258]
    Quote Originally Posted by 1project2many View Post
    I'm sorry, but I seem to be having trouble seeing the relay or any of the wires attached to it. Maybe you have a wiring diagram and can match up wire colors?

    Sorry about that, On the firewall there are two relays, the one on the left is the Fuel Pump Relay. It was already removed so that photo only showed what I believe could be the TH400 relay. Here are two photos, one showing the Fuel pump relay on the left which was removed and the relay in question.

    I cleaned up the wires, the colors are a little faded, but it looks like orange, tan/blk, red/blk, brwn/blk?

    relay2.jpg
    relay1.jpg
    The 87 G20 305/3spd auto Van I put a 6.0L into had the same part number relay as the fuel pump for the kickdown for the 3L80 aka late model TH400 with a 350 output shaft that was in it.

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    The A/C on signal is +12VDC off the cycling switch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast355 View Post
    The A/C on signal is +12VDC off the cycling switch.
    Ok, so If I connected 12v to the AC wire from the ECM, this in theory should then increase the idle?
    If it does, then I could Mcgyver up a "fast idle" switch by running that AC wire to a switch.

    This could solve one of the problems.. Thanks for the info!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast355 View Post

    The 87 G20 305/3spd auto Van I put a 6.0L into had the same part number relay as the fuel pump for the kickdown for the 3L80 aka late model TH400 with a 350 output shaft that was in it.
    Ok, so you're saying that the Relay I have in those photos are in fact the correct wires and relay for the TH400 trans?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mecanicus View Post
    You have the wiring diagramm from SOOB, there you can see pin B8 is coming from A/C pressure switch. Try to give it a minus signal alternatively a plus signal, if you are lucky, rpm will rise a bit!
    On the new wiring harness there's a wire labeled AC Pressure which I haven't connected to anything.
    Please forgive me, what do you mean when you say give it a plus signal or minus signal?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrgto68 View Post
    On the new wiring harness there's a wire labeled AC Pressure which I haven't connected to anything.
    Please forgive me, what do you mean when you say give it a plus signal or minus signal?
    I do not have a complete wiring diagram of such a car, but normaly ecm is controlled by minus signal (earth, ground). If the A/C pressure switch will ground that wire, you may do that manualy (by a switch) thus rpm could rise up these rpm`s you need even when engine is idling. Somebody mentioned this earlier in that thread.
    "AHWZ",is that your memcal? what is XUZA?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mecanicus View Post
    I do not have a complete wiring diagram of such a car, but normaly ecm is controlled by minus signal (earth, ground). If the A/C pressure switch will ground that wire, you may do that manualy (by a switch) thus rpm could rise up these rpm`s you need even when engine is idling. Somebody mentioned this earlier in that thread.
    "AHWZ",is that your memcal? what is XUZA?

    Thank you! I'll do some more research on the AC Signal, I don't want to guess and fry my ecm. ;-)


    AHWZ=
    20190217_114932.jpg


    XUZA is the name of the rig. :-)

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