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  1. #1
    Fuel Injected! ralmo94's Avatar
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    You just use it like normal. If it says -2 you are rich 2% so you need to remove 2%. 1 minus 2%= 0.98. So you multiply that by 0.98. if you need to add 2%, multiply by 1.02. Hope that makes sense.
    You do need to add your MAF LAYOUT the same as you added your VE layout.
    No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better

  2. #2
    Fuel Injected! Dukenukemx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ralmo94 View Post
    You just use it like normal. If it says -2 you are rich 2% so you need to remove 2%. 1 minus 2%= 0.98. So you multiply that by 0.98. if you need to add 2%, multiply by 1.02. Hope that makes sense.
    You do need to add your MAF LAYOUT the same as you added your VE layout.
    I think I get it. So I made the layout and used the Frequency for the MAF instead of the pressure and this is what I got. Going by this I assume I need to add? Looking at the log I don't see my MAF frequency getting very high. Does that mean I wasn't revving the engine high enough when driving?
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    Last edited by Dukenukemx; 10-31-2022 at 05:43 PM.

  3. #3
    Fuel Injected! ralmo94's Avatar
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    Yeah, looks like you are lean.

    Higher Hz does come from higher airflow, higher throttle.

    Make sure you filter your data
    No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better

  4. #4
    Fuel Injected! Dukenukemx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ralmo94 View Post
    Yeah, looks like you are lean.

    Higher Hz does come from higher airflow, higher throttle.

    Make sure you filter your data
    Did what you explained and it certainly got better. I might have logged a bit better but I think one more adjustment and it should fine. I assume that once that's done I undo the changes the guy showed in the video because I think that turns off the VE table? By the way, thanks a lot for the help. I don't see any other places online that had this much info on how to tune without needing HPTuners. I certainly learned a lot.
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  5. #5
    Fuel Injected! ralmo94's Avatar
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    It's a lot easier to just copy the your new MAF curve to the bin file you had before you made all those changes then to go back and undo all those changes. If it were mine I would like to see those higher numbers at least 0 or maybe in the negative just to touch before I called it quits. You might add a little bit to the areas you didn't get to also and richen that up a little bit.

    After you are dialed in and you turn the stock blended airflow back on you should be able check out your PE if you have a wideband.
    You also would be ready for the LC patch. If you don't have a wide band, I would suggest just using the stock LC settings. If you do, you could experiment a little bit, but I would recommend starting with the stock settings as a base line.

    By the way, did that spreadsheet help you with the tcc and shift table settings?
    No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better

  6. #6
    Fuel Injected! Dukenukemx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ralmo94 View Post
    By the way, did that spreadsheet help you with the tcc and shift table settings?
    It's one of the things I wanna do before the final flash I do. I did look at it but not sure how it's suppose to help? There is mention of 2nd gear and TCC but that's mostly for towing. Couldn't I just set a TCC in 2nd, or is that not a great idea? One of the reasons I started looking into tuning the Vette was because I had Chuck from Corvettes of Westchester tune it and after 3 months in his possession I got it back with a bad transmission. The fluid was as black as motor oil which is my fault, but is kinda strange because I did change the filter and whatever fluid there was in the the pan 3 years prior, and it's not like I daily drove the car. Looking at the tune I can see he made some questionable changes which someone was able to revert since I have no idea what stock is, but then reverted because there was a notable performance difference with the exception of the TCC since he disabled it on 3rd and only worked on 4th past 56 Mph. I did get a new to me junk yard trans that had been rebuilt in the past, as I wasn't going to pay Chuck $4k for something that he could be responsible for. Plus I never changed a transmission before so it was a learning experiencing. So here you can see what is stock and what Chuck did, which was set everything to zero. Probably not healthy for the transmission. Not sure what's a good in between value to put there?
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  7. #7
    Fuel Injected! ralmo94's Avatar
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    I understand your frustration, and that's kinda why I don't take any of my vehicles anywhere to have anything done, except for tire shops, and I wish I didn't have to do that.
    Here is what I know about trans tuning in a nutshell.
    4l60 & 80 e as I have read, are not meant to run full time without lockup like the older trans are. I remember reading something about there not being adi quite enough flow, maybe be different with aftermarket TC, maybe hogwash. What I do know from experience is trucks pulling a trailer up a grade in second gear skyrocket the trans temp. Tcc locked it's fine. I traded some work for a truck that a guy put 3 transmissions in, cause of that. He said it just wasn't big enough to pull his camper up grades. This applies little to cars, as they shouldn't be pulling a trailer up a grade,.
    Shift schedules should be made where they don't have too easy of a downshift that you are constantly downshifting, same with. Tcc lock. .
    I prefer a trans to work different than most people I think, I prefer to feel every gear and not have it unlocked, that being said most people like to not even know there is anything going on at all in the transmission. Normally they are programed to 123 quick shift, then of then when fast enough to not lug the engine tcc lock.
    I prefer to have tcc lock in 2nd 3rd Also. If you do it just right you can set it up where when you take off up shift to 2nd, then tcc lock, and it feels like another gear, then third. Usually I prefer third locked pretty much all the time. Sometimes you are better off to be locked in 3rd then unlocked in oD. Lugging the trans isn't good either, especially with 4l60, you have to keep input shaft speed high enough for the pump to make pressure.
    What the spreadsheet does is it allows you to see graphs of how your shifts and tcc lockup are working together. For instance you can have a shift schedule programed, and a tcc schedule and it always shifts before tcc lockup or unlock. Or your downshift could be a way that doesn't work well with the upshift,.

    When I write a shift schedule I take the first upshift first and think about max speed I want an upshift to happen, usually a little before redline, then I usually set the guest three throttle settings about the same, but I usually keep it linear, then I think about what speed I want to shift at low throttle. Then I make the line in between somewhat straight. Then I think about max speed I want to kickdown to first, again I usually set the highest three pretty close to the same, then slowest speed I want to kick down to first with no throttle. Then I fill it in again to make somewhat of a straight line. Then I look at the graph and make sure 1 up and 2 down lines never cross. Then I do the same for the following gears. Keeping in mind cruising at different speeds, for instance I hate a 25 mph speed limit with tcc unlocked. You probably don't want a hair trigger down shift from od. Stock usually allows about half throttle before downshifting in cruise gear, it will depend on how much throttle you need to go up a slight incline vs flat level cruise, every car is somewhat different and most my experience is with trucks.
    Once i get the shift schedule how I like it, I look at the graphs that show how they compare to each other and make sure there are no up down loops and everything looks good. Then I move on to tcc. Again I think about this speed it shifts in to second, when do I want it to lock. Then I look at the unlock and think about if I want it to unlock before down shift or not. Look at lock unlock graph to make sure they don't cross, then compare them to the shifts. All this takes a lot of time to be well thought out, and after you road test, you may find a schedule that looks good on the graphs doesn't preform the way you thought it would. It helps some times if you manually upshift while logging and have someone looking at the log to tell you the throttle position so you have a better idea of what the pedal feels like vs what the pcm sees, and make notes of what mph you shift at. Or think it I highly recommend if you make ANY changes to an otherwise stock schedule that you put the numbers in the spreadsheet and look at the graphs to make sure there isn't a problem. I have thought different times, I just do need to change this one shift point, but when I looked at it on the graph there was a problem. Also not sure if the Vette has a performance button stock or not, but you can make use of the performance shift / towhaul button and have a more performance shift schedule and an economic shift schedule,
    No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better

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